You only have to see a photo like this posted on Facebook with a carp lying on bare ground or being held up by its gills to see the passion that is generated toward better handling and fish care. The problem, as I’ve discovered recently, is that too many carp anglers don’t look beyond the fish care basics of a good sized net or an unhooking mat.
So what else do we need to think about to improve carp safety?
Rigs & Tackle
Every angler needs to think about the consequences of breaking their mainline while playing a fish or if it runs into a snag. If the fish is left trailing a hook link, leader and a long length of line then it can get tangled in structure. If it is lucky it might pull free of the hook and survive – possibly with a nasty mouth injury and disfigurement. However this situation is complicated further if the lead still remains attached creating a so called ‘Death Rig’. This is especially the case with in-line leads or running leads if they cannot slide up the leader and over any mainline connection.
Unfortunately I’ve witnessed some anglers connecting their leader to the main line with a regular or link clip swivel. As a result there is simply no way that a lead can pass over the swivel and come free should the main line break. So the likely result is that the carp is condemned to dragging everything around while it suffers a lingering death. Even a loop to loop or knot connection should be carefully checked to make sure the lead (and any anti tangle sleeve or tubing) can pass easily over the connection in the event of a break off. And always keep an eye on leadcore leaders as after a while they can become worn and the frayed ends have the potential to ‘bunch up’ preventing a lead coming off easily.
The tragic outcome of a ‘death rig’…
Leads should be on a lead clip or able to slide up and down the leader / mainline. NEVER, EVER tie or knot your lead to the mainline or hooklink. And never, ever glue or bind the tail rubber to a lead clip to prevent an accidental release or to simply save losing a lead… If you want to stop a lead coming off the clip when it hits the water then simply feather the line coming off the spool toward the end of the cast and then stop the line just before it hits the water. That way the lead will stay well forward on the clip and you’ll also minimize the chances of the hook link getting tangled. Alternatively wrap some PVA string or tape around the tail rubber but never, ever ram it on tight. If you loop to loop your mainline to the leader as I like to do then make sure the loop knots allow a lead or lead clip to pass over them easily in the event of the mainline breaking. A ‘Perfection’ loop is a relatively easy loop to tie and is ideal as it creates a small knot and you can trim the tag end once the knot is seated properly.
A ‘Death Rig’ – The swivel and split shot stopped the lead coming free…Simply horrible… No Excuse!
Do’s & Don’ts
Always make sure your lead can slide off the leader if the mainline breaks.
Do not place a swivel, split shot, bead etc between your lead and your main line.
Lead Clips are designed to ‘drop’ the lead – do not glue, tie or ram the tail rubber in place.
Learn to tie the correct knots for attaching mainline and leader.
Test it out before you cast it out – Simple really!
Snag Fishing
When fishing near snags it is vital to stay close to your rods at all times and tighten up your bait runner. Allowing a carp to simply run into snags because you were 50yds down the bank chatting or sleeping in your bivvy is unforgivable. When you get a take grab the rod immediately, keep your finger firmly on the spool to stop the fish taking line against the drag and start walking backwards to ease the fish away from the snag. In most cases the fish will begin to ‘kite’ away from the snag and you can ease the pressure off the spool drag and play the fish as usual. It is amazing how much pressure you can apply in those first 20-30 seconds and it is all about being confident in your tackle and your technique!
I prefer through action rods with test curves of 2.50 – 3.00 rather than heavier, fast taper distance casting rods. You can actually put a lot more pressure on a carp headed for a snag with these lighter action rods without risking a hook pull. Always check your main line and leader for any cuts or abrasion before each cast or after landing a fish. Top brand name hooks rarely break or straighten while playing a carp but I still like to test one from each batch just to be certain.
And remember that it is vital to make sure your rigs, leader and mainline connections are always tied so they will ensure the carp can rid itself of the lead and cannot be tethered by long lengths of line etc.
Hint – If you are new to snag fishing or not confident in applying pressure in those vital early seconds then avoid fishing too close to snags until you’ve gained some practice & experience. A few Spombs / Spods of bait close to the snag will get the fish interested but then start extending your baited area further out (say 15-20yds). This should entice the fish further away from the snag making it easier and safer to fish for them.
Safe Tackle Options:
I really like the new PB Products ‘Hit & Run’ leaders that use the novel X-Safe lead clip. Instead of the leader being ‘knotted’ to the hook link swivel it passes through it and actually connects to the X-Safe Lead clip. In the event of the main line breaking the leader will simply pull through the swivel leaving the fish with just a hook-link to rid itself and no trialing lead, leader or mainline. The ‘in-line’ lead shown is coming out soon while the lead clip version is available in pre-made leaders or as components to make up your you own rigs. Brilliant!
I particularly like running rigs over ‘bolt rigs’ when fishing snags. The indication, especially with drop backs, is far more sensitive and you can often set the hook before the fish has ‘bolted’ giving you precious moments to avoid them reaching a snag. The Enterprise ‘Snag Safe’ rings work a treat for a running rig lead attachment. I’ve found they do not ‘accidentally’ drop the lead like many lead clip arrangements but ensure that the lead will pull free if it becomes ‘snagged’. The large ‘ring’ also ensures that it will pass over any normal leader to mainline connections in the event of a line break.
Next month I will put together a more detailed article on tying up shock leaders and rigs – stay tuned!
Quick release
Carp are remarkably hardy beasts and usually seem none the worse for their brief encounter with the non-aquatic world. However I’ve witnessed some pretty thoughtless behavior when it comes to weighing and photographing fish. A little forward thinking and planning makes all the difference.
Firstly – Do you really need a photo or weight? Sure go ahead if it is a PB or particularly big or good looking fish. Otherwise why not simply unhook it in the net and then release it? Oh and never, ever hold a carp (or any big fish) by its gills or suspended from a ‘Boga Grip’.
Are you ready? There is no point hauling the fish on to a mat if you are simply not set up and ready to take photos or weigh it. The latest Retainer slings are ideal for keeping a fish in while you are getting everything together. Unlike sacks they help support a tired fish in an upright position. However don’t take too long getting ready otherwise your tired fish can become a very lively handful on the mat. Always make sure the fish is kept out of direct sunlight and in sufficient water depth. While we are talking of mats some are simply inadequate for the job. If they do not have sides or a cover then a fish can easily slide off even on the shallowest slope. Ideally they should also have carry handles that makes it easier to move the fish to and from the waters edge.
Wet & Cool. Have a bucket of water ready to pour over the fish to keep it cool and help wash off any debris. Avoid letting the fish lay uncovered in direct sunlight.
Weight a minute! When weighing big fish I would recommend a tripod, weigh bar or at the minimum a T-bar for the scales. Simply trying to hold the scale body (which will give a false reading) or hold onto the small hook on top will likely end in tragedy. And before you lift it up make sure the fish is safely ‘zipped’ into the weigh sling to make sure it cannot ‘fall out’
How low can you go… Avoid lifting the fish above knee height when moving it or taking photos. Better still stay on your knees. This minimizes the risk that should the fish suddenly flap around then it can be quickly lowered back on to the mat without the risk of it falling and suffering a potential fatal injury. Holding the fish at chest level for a photo while standing up or trying to carry to or from the waters edge is liable to end in disaster (for the fish) and have your behavior rightly ridiculed when it’s posted on Facebook!
Carp Fishing TV – Mark Pitchers shows how to handle carp and return them safely:
In summary – make sure you are properly prepared for photographing and weighing that prize capture. That way you can minimize the time the fish is out of the water and return it with the least amount of stress to it and yourself.
Grass carp
The fact that grass carp (Amur) can easily out grow common carp here in North America reaching fifty or more pounds makes them a desirable target. Unfortunately their sheer length and size plus a tendency to fight more in the net or on the bank can lead to all sorts of problems. As a result I’ve seen too many photos of grass carp (like the one below) with bloody gills, missing scales and torn fins.
Grass carp are very susceptible to poor handling!
If you are going to target grass carp and especially big ones please go properly prepared! A large, small mesh net together with an appropriately sized (i.e. B-I-G) landing mat are essential. I now chose to keep my fish in the water and carefully ‘float’ the fish out of the net on to a giant Chubb mat. I also rarely fish alone for these monsters as an extra pair of hands to assist with handling and weighing ensures they can be released with the minimum of stress or possible damage.
Finally… Keep it Clean!
One area that is rarely considered is the proper washing of mats, nets, sacks and weigh slings. This is critically important especially if you fish more than one water. There are numerous fish diseases (Carp/Koi Herpes, Spring Viremia of Carp (SVC) and so on) as well as other organisms that can easily be transferred on wet or contaminated nets etc. These diseases can have devastating impacts on not just carp but other fish populations while invasive plant and other organisms can be equally damaging. Always wash and dry your nets etc before going to fish another water. If you cannot thoroughly dry nets etc for a minimum of 24 hours then simply soak everything in a dilute cholorox solution before rinsing with clean water. Not only will you be protecting your fishing but will also help to avoid unpleasant smells in your car or truck!
Don’t Leave it Trashed!
While I’m on the subject of carp carp care please also think about your surroundings and other wildlife.
Take home all your trash (it’s easy to carry a couple of trash bags).
While waiting for a run why not remove any trash you find left by others?
Dispose of fishing line carefully. Birds and other animals can easily become tangled in it and die – often slowly and painfully.
Pick up any spilled bait. This will prevent insects, rats, skunks, ducks etc hanging around the swim.
Do not cut down bank side trees or vegetation unnecessarily.
If you take the time to keep the bank side clean and free of trash it will help to encourage others to do the same. It will also help improve the image & reputation of carp anglers if we are seen to be cleaning and protecting the environment.
This might look comical but these rings are deadly…An outcome of discarded fishing line…
Nicely bagged up… But why did it get left behind?
Copyright: Iain Sorrell & Angling Solutions LLC
Disclosure: I’m not a sponsored angler but I am involved in selling fishing tackle. Any recommendations I make are the result of personal experience and preferences gained over many years of trial and error. If I like a product (even if I don’t sell it…) you’ll hear about it and if I don’t you won’t. Simple!
Spombs & Spods come in all shapes & sizes and are a great tool when you want to get either a few extra hook baits or perhaps even several pounds of bulk feed & particles into your chosen swim. They have certainly become an invaluable part of any carp anglers armory.
However one of the more common issues I hear voiced is the number of Spods or Spombs that some anglers seem to ‘break’ off & lose each year.
Check for Wear.
Perhaps the most common place for break offs to occur is at the point where the line is ‘clipped’ up on the spool. It does not take too many casts, particularly with thinner braids, to begin to fatigue or even wear through the line. This is especially true when punching the rod well beyond the intended casting range so that the spod or Spomb is continually being stopped very abruptly resulting in undue force against the line being held at the spool clip. I would certainly recommend that you use only as much casting force as needed to hit the clip not only to stop the line being fatigued but also to stop the spod / Spomb ‘bouncing’ back and falling short of the intended target.
I would also suggest it is well worth regularly ‘unclipping’ the line and taking a close look for any signs of damage or wear. In a heavy baiting session I also like to move the line back or forward an inch every so often to minimize the wear & tear across a single section of line. If breaking line at the clip continues to be a common issue then it might be worth taking a much closer look at the line clip itself to see if it has any sharp edges.
Another area to look for signs of wear or damage is on the line where it hangs over the tip ring when you begin the cast. A worn tip ring or any other cracked guide surface will soon make short work of any line.
Care in Casting
One way to ‘soften’ the impact is to move the rod about 45 degrees to the left or right shortly after casting. This creates a slight ‘bow’ in the line and as the spod/Spomb nears the ‘target’ simply move the rod back toward the vertical and then drop the rod tip just before the spod or Spomb is about to hit the water. This might seem a little awkward at first bit it not only greatly reduces the force of the ‘stop’ against the clip but also helps the spod/Spomb enter the water from a near vertical which helps ensure that it empties more effectively.
Making Connections
At the business end I like to connect 30 feet of 50lb braid shock leader to a kwik clip (plus a protective sleeve) so I can easily remove or change over between different sized spods or Spombs as needed. I also thread the shock leader through a 15-20” length of rig tubing which not only helps protect the line from abrasion but also serves to ‘stiffen’ the line and help eliminate any tangles.
Here’s my preferred set up for heavy duty spodding / Spombing (6-10 oz) :
A dedicated 4.5 – 5lb test curve 12’ Spod/Spomb rod such as a Century NG, Free Spirit or heavy duty Surf Rod. This should be matched with a large spool reel (mine is a well worn Diawa Emblem Pro 5000) loaded with 250-300 yds of 50lb braid. This covers 90% of most needs up to around 100yds. If you really need to cast further then I would consider 20-30lb braid mainline but only when used with with a 50lb braid shock leader. To measure the correct length of shock leader measure from the casting position (usually just above the mid section of the rod) of the spod/Spomb back to the rod tip + rod length and with no less than 4-5 turns around the spool.
Lighter 3.00 – 4.00 test curve rods & reels can cope with smaller Spod/Spomb loads but always be sure to err on the side of safety by testing it filled to half capacity rather than going all out and risk breaking the rod.
Getting it Back…
One drawback of the Spomb is that it floats…but only just! This can lead to frustration when trying to recover one that has broken off. A simple solution is to grab a few of the polystyrene bobbers (I like the Thill versions) that are available in most tackle shops here in North America. It doesn’t take more than a couple of minutes to remove the line clip and plastic center and if necessary open up the hole so that it slides securely ( a drop of super glue can be used) over the connecting sleeve on the Spomb. You now not only have a Spomb that should float nicely if it breaks off but if you chose a bright neon bobber it will also serve as a convenient marker.
Save yourself!
Finger protection is essential to protect against cuts when casting heavy loads especially with braid. 30lb braid can cut like a cheese wire especially through wet fingers and the wounds are not only deep & painful but like most line cuts can easily become infected and take forever to heal properly. Protective finger stalls are inexpensive or you can wear a golf or other thin leather glove. It is also important to tighten down the drag on the reel spool as most cuts occur with line being pulled off the spool while the rod is under load during the cast.
There’s a blustery cross wind and I’m standing on the edge of a field in Essex, England under the watchful gaze of top tournament caster & World record breaker Terry Edmonds. He’s asked me to show him a cast before embarking on the lesson that I’m hoping will allow me to reach more distant horizons and more importantly some bigger fish. Since I’ve not picked up a carp rod in almost 2 months thanks to the Arctic conditions back in Connecticut let alone had the need for casting much beyond 80-100 yds I’m feeling just a little nervous.
I try & relax while getting the feel for the Chris Orme custom built rod Terry has handed me. The rod is paired with a Shimano Ultegra 14000XSC reel loaded with 12lb mono (0.30 mm) connected to a 50lb braid shock leader (see the note on safety) and a 4oz distance lead. My first attempt is a reasonably respectable 132 yds (accurately determined with a measuring wheel) for an overhead cast and earns approval from Terry for looking relaxed but with plenty of scope for improvement.
And so the lesson begins… Over the next three hours Terry explains the theoretical and also demonstrates the practical approaches I need to take to add more distance to my casts. There are plenty of opportunities to practice under Terry’s critical gaze and after each chuck he reviews my latest effort as we walk up the field to recover the lead buried in the soft ground. As the measuring wheel does not lie any gain, however small, provides a realistic indication of my progress and what I need to work on. After a short while he’s helped develop my stance, maximize the arc the rod travels, fixed my gaze about 45 degrees above the horizon and achieve the correct application of power – hit it too hard or too early & you will risk line fraps. As a result I’m consistently hitting around 145 yards. That might not seem like a huge gain from my starting point but as Terry points out I had many of the basics already sorted and simply needed some fine tuning to go to the next level. In many cases Terry’s students see incredible gains with some going from under 100yds to consistently hitting 140-160 yds by the end of a lesson.
I ask Terry if I can try one of the new Harrison Trebuchet Lite 13ft rods and he soon has the reel swapped over and ready to throw. There has been a lot of talk about these new rods and my only experience to date had been with the original Trebuchet model while fishing in Romania last year. I personally found the older model to be a bit of a beast when playing fish let alone throwing a lead. The new 3.75 test curve ‘Lite’ model feels altogether different and potentially more angler friendly especially for my lighter build. As a result I’m immediately hitting just shy of 150yds while Terry once again demonstrates his incredible skills and promptly puts a lead way past 200yds – still with the strong cross wind!
Fully Loaded!
My shoulders are beginning to complain about the effort being demanded of them and as we near the end of the lesson Terry urges me to focus on arching further back and using my hips and legs to help generate more power. The result is a couple of casts past 150yds with the longest hitting 153 yds which in calmer conditions Terry says would easily translate to 160 yds plus. He also notes that my casts are very accurate, consistently landing within a few feet of each other despite the blustery conditions. I’m more than happy with the result which equates to a 14% improvement and one I’m sure will increase with more practice.
Practice certainly and perhaps some more time in the gym to develop the appropriate muscles. That’s an important part of Terry’s regime to remain competitive and continually reach past 200 yds so he spends plenty of time working out and lifting weights. This latter point about casting fitness is one that any sensible angler needs to consider. A 12-13’ rod with a 4oz lead can put a lot of stress on your body especially if you are out practicing for an hour or two. It is very easy to over ‘do it’ especially if you are not particularly athletic or have an underlying injury. It is vital to do some regular exercises that will help mobilize and develop those leg, back, shoulder and arm muscles if you want to get the most from your casts. Finally its not just about how strong you are but about how quickly you can accelerate the tip of the rod and that only comes from developing your technique.
Reality check…
As Terry Edmonds notes 200 yds seems to be the new ‘150’ that anglers like to talk about. However there are in reality only a very few folk even capable of even hitting that distance in tournament casting competitions let alone while out fishing. All too often anglers are lured with expansive claims that suggest purchasing a particular rod will magically give them a meteoric increase in distance. Even worse are the videos of someone with clearly limited casting skills throwing a lead with whoops and exclamations that anyone should know barely went even half the distance claimed! The old saying ‘a bad workman always blames his tools’ has rarely been more true when it comes to distance casting. There is absolutely no substitute for improving your casting skills than getting some well qualified tuition from an expert like Terry Edmonds followed by lots & lots of practice.
Tournament measurements don’t lie…
Since I have always had an interest in rod design and have followed some of the developments in distant casting both for carp and surf fishing over the years it is an ideal opportunity to talk to someone with Terry’s depth of knowledge. One topic has to be butt ring diameter. Terry says a 50mm regular or a 40mm stand off (‘K’) butt ring is vital for mono but can be smaller for braid. He agrees that too many rods never intended for distance casting should be fine with a 40mm butt ring. We also talk about Fuji’s choke ring theory (dating back many years) and the recent ‘microwave’ guides that were designed for light braids for spinning rods. Terry says they’ve never proven successful (especially with mono) in the tournament casting arena where innovations live or die by accurate measurement instead of hyped up marketing claims.
What next?
While we don’t have too many places demanding long distance fishing in North America it certainly does not hurt having the ability to realize the opportunity when the occasion arises. Fishing up to 80 yds is certainly with in reach of most carp anglers. I know that might not sound very far but fishing at distance is not the same as simply being able to chuck a lead a long way. Then consider the importance of placing the bait in the desired spot. If you are off the desired mark by only 3 feet with a 40yd cast then it will off by 6 feet at 80yds, 12 feet at 120 and so on. So there is no point in being able to cast a long way if you cannot place the baited rig in the intended area.
The Gear…
There is little doubt that if you want to maximize your casting distance then you usually get what you pay for. Top of the range blanks from specialists such as Harrison or Century are not only built from the highest quality carbon fibres but have design specifications that simply cannot be replicated in lower cost, mass produced rods. They have test curves upwards of 3.25 and to hit any serious distance you’ll likely need 3.50 or even 3.75 in 12′ or 13′ rod lengths. However that’s not to say you can’t get close to these upper casting limits with top of the range models from the likes of Free Spirit, Fox, Nash and others. But just like a performance car you need to set them up correctly then practice to get the best from them. There has been a move away from some of the super stiff casting rods recently and these newer rods certainly make casting and more importantly playing fish a little easier and more pleasurable. That said it’s also worth remembering that unless you really need to cast over 100 yds a more through action rod of 2.50 – 3.00 test curve will likely be a better choice to avoid hook pulls – especially with the hard fighting fish here in North America.
A reel comes next and once again you’ll need to make some decisions on how much you are prepared to spend. A big pit reel with a large, long and relatively shallow spool will certainly out perform a standard fixed spool. A model such as the top of the range Shimano Technium will cost upward of $1100 but fortunately there are now several less costly cousins. A lighter reel reduces inertia when casting to help generate more tip speed but unless you are dedicated to tournament casting the extra cost might be better spent on the rod. Line lay on the spool is critical as any hindrance to the line coming off the spool will have a negative impact on the distances you can reach. There are some line and reel combinations that seem to work better than others and if you really want to get serious then learn more about ‘shimming’ out the spool with different thickness washers to maximize performance.
The choice of main line is one area where your choice can have a very significant impact on casting performance. While pound test is perhaps relevant to your fishing conditions you really need to pay attention to line diameter. A smaller diameter line usually equates to increased casting distance due to reduced friction through the guides, less air resistance and less weight while being pulled being pulled along by the lead weight. Once you compare line diameters and pound test you might be surprised to find a suitable compromise of a high enough test for your fishing & casting needs. Its also important to make sure the line is not too stiff or subject to coiling (line memory) as both of these will limit casting distance. It is also vital to keep line clean and free from any build up from dirt etc. Reeling in the line through a light colored cloth with some diluted dish detergent occasionally will not only remove dirt and grease but you might be surprised at how much dirt gets left on the cloth after just a couple of sessions. When you wind in your line onto the spool make sure there is sufficient tension on the line for it pack down neatly. If there is too little tension it will have a tendency to come off too easily, sometimes with multiple coils that can get fouled and cause a break off. If there is too much tension (especially after playing a hard fighting fish) then the coils can get jammed creating more drag off the reel. Mono can stretch by upwards of 12-20% so if you’ve caught a lot of fish then simply winding the line back on the reel at the end of the day can result in the line coming off in tight coils when you next go fishing.
Safety…
Terry recommends a shock leader made with 50lb braid with at least 4-6 turns on the reel spool when pushing the limits (together with a finger stall or casting glove to protect your finger). This is vital with lines of 15lb or less as a break off mid cast can send an untethered and potentially lethal lead and rig way further than when dragging a hundred yards or more of mainline. So no matter if you are fishing on a lake or practicing in a field make sure there is no one down range that could get hit should you break off. It is also important to remember that if you break off while fishing then the bait can still be picked up by a carp. So it is critical with any shock leader system to make sure it does not end up being dragged around by a fish in the event of the main line breaking. The braid to mono connection should be tied carefully so that it creates a neat, small knot that will allow a rig to pass over it. It is also important to check these main line to leader connections on a regular basis and re-tie them if you have any doubts about them.
Some Suggested Mono to Braid Connections:
So don’t just sit there dreaming about making long distance casts get out there and give it a go. Oh and don’t just guess how far you are casting – measure it!
In Part II we’ll look at how you put the theory into practice.
About Terry Edmonds
Terry’s the man when it comes to all things casting. Being a tournament caster for five years saw him take three UK records; casting 267 yards with a 3oz lead, 246 yards with a 2½oz and 212 yards with a 2oz. On top of this he also holds the two furthest casts with a fixed-spool ever recorded in the UK, launching a 4oz lead a whopping 285 yards and a 3oz 287 yards. That’s some resume!
No longer a competitive tournament caster Terry is now a casting tutor and assists big-name companies in developing their rods.
It was late November of last year when I got a call from Bogdan the co-owner of K-1 baits. “Hey Iain do you want some boilies for Romania?” He had seen my name listed as a team member on the Best 5 Carp tournament website. It appeared my old mate Frank Warwick had forgotten to tell me he’d put my name down to join him and Guy Aitkins as teammates for the 5 day tournament on Lake Raduta, near Sarulesti Romania in May 2014. So it was with some trepidation that I explained the situation to my long suffering wife “Sorry dear it’s a done deal I’m afraid. I have to go…”
Raduta history
In the 1980’s the former communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu in an ill conceived attempt to create a shipping route from the Black Sea diverted the Danube to flood a valley giving local villagers just 72 hours to abandon their homes. The derelict buildings later created some daunting snags for anglers along with more eerie swims like the ‘Graveyard’ where human bones often washed on shore from a flooded cemetery. In 1990 Robert Raduta leased the lake, built a lodge and began stocking fish to create what Carpworld then called the ‘Everest’ of carp fishing. As reports of big fish surfaced it drew many of the carp elite to its banks. Among them were Frank Warwick and Jurgen Becker. In 1998 the then world record common of 82lbs came from Raduta and further added to its reputation for producing big fish. Around 2002 reports came in of a significant fish kill and the loss of many of the big fish but by 2008 the word on the carp vine was that Raduta was once again producing some bigger fish for those prepared to put in the effort.
Getting there…
Even as a committed short session angler I can still easily load up a barrow for a few hours fishing here in North America. So the thought of a week long competition on a major European water soon had me maxed out on my two bags, each weighing in at just over 50lbs a piece. I was more than a little nervous at the thought of them going astray as losing my terminal tackle and bait (courtesy of my good friends at K-1) etc would have been a disaster. After heaving the bags on to the scales at check-in all was fine and with the bags & myself traveling via London and onto Bucharest I headed toward security and was met by the longest line I’ve ever seen at Boston Logan’s Terminal E. It stretched right around the terminal and would surely take over an hour to go through security. As I mulled over the situation I got talking to a couple of guys headed to Scotland for a golfing tour. They suddenly spotted a VIP being escorted through a separate line and without hesitation my new found friends grabbed me and proceeded to ‘escort’ me in the same direction. After some very polite discussion regarding the importance of my status in representing the USA in a European tournament we were cleared through in a matter of seconds and headed for a well earned drink!
The next afternoon I arrived in Bucharest and was happily reunited with my luggage. Emerging from the baggage area I was met by one of our hosts Alex who loaded myself and the British contingent of Rob Hughes, Harry Charrington, Brian Kirby and Jason Colenso into his truck for the journey south to Sarulesti.
Robert Raduta’s fishing & hunting lodge sits on the Southern most shore of the lakes and has been the focal point for many big fish anglers looking to catch some of the legendary fish in this lake system. It was also to be the headquarters for the Best 5 Carp tournament founded by Andrei ‘Toto’ Popescu and Andrei Vladeanu as well as the gathering point for the 200 competitors making up the 7+ teams as they arrived from over 18 countries.
A large covered seating area overlooks the water and after a shower we settled in for a few beers. As most teams would be driving to the lake they would arrive on Sunday in time for registration and the pre-event party in the evening. So it was a relatively small group who sat down to dinner on the Saturday night with Frank & Guy scheduled to land around midnight so would not reach the lodge until around 2am.
After breakfast on Sunday we sat around the open foyer and greeted the continual stream of teams as they arrived for the registration. As carping celebrities Frank and Rob were kept especially busy posing for photographs and greeting old friends. In the evening a welcoming party hosted by the event sponsors included a pig roast and music from our very own DJ Guy Aitkins. Unfortunately the storm clouds that had been gathering during the day finally gave way to a massive downpour with some very impressive thunder and lightening forcing everyone to retreat to their bivvies or take shelter back in the lodge.
Rob Hughes keeping us entertained…Frank was kept busy greeting arriving teams
As Monday dawned overcast, damp and considerably cooler the last few teams arrived. In the morning we busied our selves making final preparations and securing the loan of the rods, landing nets, bivvies, bed chairs etc we would need. Finally it was time for the draw and everyone gathered in front of a large map before a member from each team drew a number to determine the order for the actual peg draw. This is always a nervous time and one that Frank dreads as he has a reputation for getting a difficult swim. As he revealed our peg # and the sticker with our names on was placed on the map there were murmurs of approval from the crowd. Perhaps Frank’s luck had changed?
The Swim.
Our peg #14 (CPK Section) turned out to be the Northern most swim of the tournament on the lake. As a result we had high hopes that an end swim with a large expanse of un-fished water to our left could work very much in our favor. After the big thunderstorm overnight the tracks around the lake were still very muddy and it took a while before we were able to get a ride to our swim. It was already an hour after the start of the competition that I was dropped off with the first load of equipment while Frank & Guy waited on a second vehicle to pick them up. Overcast skies and a few drops of rain prompted me to quickly set up a bivvy and make sure our gear stayed dry. Once this was done I took sometime to wander around and explore our swim. Raduta is effectively 5 lakes interconnected by channels of 100 – 200 yds in width. Our swim included one of these channels as it connected to the main CPK section that opened out to our right. However the opening to this main body of water was accessible only through a narrow, 3’ deep channel through a large, reed edged shallow area (which included the derelict remains of an old and mostly submerged village) and a gap between a long point at the end of which another team (Peg #13 Team Tasko from Bulgaria) was set-up. Even more worrying was a net stretched right across the channel effectively blocking off any fish movement from the other water expanse to our left. This net turned out to be a barrier installed to prevent ‘farmed’ sturgeon escaping from the northern most lake. In the bay to our right there were three further pegs 15, 16 & 17.
Frank & Guy finally arrived and we concentrated on getting a better understanding of the depths etc around the swim before it got too dark. We managed just a few depth measurements before the marker rig became stuck fast in a snag and we lost the lot! Oh well we learned enough to be getting on with and having seen a couple of fish roll in the shallows decided to get on with it and get a couple of rods out and fishing before the light disappeared. I settled in to fish a small reedy area of the shallows close to some part submerged and fearsome looking concrete blocks with Guy on my left & set up where the shallows met the deeper water of the main channel. Meanwhile Frank fished longer range toward the point that separated us from the main body of water.
Another fish from near the concrete block
The boys at K-1 had provided me with 50lb of boilies specially formulated for Raduta with a super high quality fishmeal base in regular and soluble boilie formats along with a selection of their latest pop-ups and ATB corn. Meanwhile Frank & Guy were supported by local bait company CPK with a belachan based boilie and several kilos of particles along with some of Frank’s renowned hook baits. In addition to these regular baits we all had a selection of imitation baits from Enterprise including some of the latest buoyant corn.
We all fished Harrison 13’ Trebuchet rods that we’d been loaned by the organizers (along with bivvies, sleeping bags and bed chairs etc). I have to say these rods were absolute ‘beasts’ with test curves of around 3.75 and made my fishing at shorter ranges a little ungainly. Frank kindly loaned me a pair of his Shimano technium reels which were loaded with 12lb mono plus 30’ of Ultima 20lb shock leader which I connected to TFG safety leaders and either a #4 Multi Rig for pop-ups or a #4 long shank bottom bait rig.
The Fishing.
On the first evening Guy got us started with a couple of fish around the 7-8Kg mark. A good sign as we hoped the feeding activity of these smaller fish would soon pull in some of the legendary beasts for which Raduata is renowned.
At around 2am I had a couple of beeps on my right hand rod that was locked up tight in the middle of the reeds and rubble. In a sleepy daze I grabbed the rod and began to walk backwards to drag the fish out of the danger zone. It didn’t feel anything special but as I wound down to get back towards the waters edge the left hand rod suddenly slammed round and the spool became an angry blur as line was torn off against a very tight clutch. Almost as quickly the rod sprang back and the line went limp… to say I was gutted would be an understatement! Meanwhile the fish I had on was soon in the net and looked to be another 7Kg fish. When I wound in the left hand rod the shock leader was cut clean and I was left to imagine what size fish might have taken off with such extraordinary force.
Guy soon became top rod landing several 6-8 Kg fish in the first 24 hours and unlike many teams ensured we at least had five fish posted on the leader board. As dusk fell at the end of day two Guy had a solid run from the edge of the shallows that put up a tremendous battle. My initial attempts to net this fish made me look like a complete novice and clearly had Guy worried at my competence. I finally got the fish into the net and once safely on the bank we discovered that the cord that should have tensioned the net between the arms was rotted through. This had allowed the fish to swim out before the net could be lifted high enough to trap it in the folds of the mesh. At least I no longer felt like a complete dunce but we did re-examine all the gear that had been loaned to us for any other potential problems.
Guy’s common weighed in at 12.89Kg (28.42 lb) and gave us a much needed lift in our spirits and raised our expectations that the real giants of Raduta were soon to come. Charlie our local official and weigh master turned up with our meal orders and told us we were now sitting in 5th place. The result sheet also revealed that very few teams had yet to even catch a fish which we initially put this down to the constantly shifting weather patterns.
As the skies cleared we were treated to a spectacular view of the night sky. There is very little light pollution, even from the local villages, so it was possible to see hundreds of stars and several planets including Saturn cresting over the horizon while the Milky Way lit up a brilliant trail across the sky.
Bucharest is a burgeoning European city surrounded by typical large scale agricultural operations. However village life in Romania has barely changed in decades. The local people farm small plots of land, often by hand while shepherds tend flocks of goats or sheep over the hillsides. As a result there is minimal impact from fertilizers and pesticides so this incredible environment hosted some of the most diverse bird and insect life I’d seen since my youth in rural England. I counted over 40 bird species in the first two days alone.
Our swim was in a field that as we discovered later hosted some fascinating plants and insect life and would also be shared with several cows and horses that would be turned out to graze each day. The horses kept their distance but the cows proved to be more problematic and we resorted to an occasional well aimed boilie to keep them from trampling our rods and bivvies. A local farmer also brought his horse and cart down to scythe and collect nettles for his pigs which he assured us greatly improved the flavor of the pork.
At night we were serenaded by crickets as well as the neighborhood dogs trying to out compete each other with their incessant howling and barking. This was only interspersed by an occasional rooster or cuckoo intent on being the first to welcome in the dawn albeit a few hours early… Oh and if that lot was not enough I soon discovered that Guy could drown the lot out with his snoring!
Not a missile launch…
On the Wednesday I emerged from the bivvy I shared with Guy to be met by a scary sight! As the dawn sky began to brighten ahead of the sunrise the eastern sky was streaked with vapor trails. My initial reaction was that the situation in neighboring Ukraine had suddenly escalated triggering what appeared to be a massive missile launch! I urgently woke Guy who reluctantly emerged from the depths of his slumbers by which time the vapor trails had come considerably closer to reveal them as a number of aircraft presumably merging along a route to destinations further west.
As Wednesday merged into Thursday we could only sit out in the warm sun and watch as the team sitting on the point and fishing into the other side of the shallow area to ourselves continued to catch. We were all but cut off from any fish reaching our swim from the main lake as their lines and the disturbance created by landing fish proved an effective barrier. Our only runs came from a couple of sturgeon that had obviously escaped from the net barrier to our left and each evening the results sheet confirmed our demise as we slipped further down the leader board. As if to add to our misery we discovered that a large bag of jelly beans had gone missing from our food supply. This mystery was later solved by a text received from none other than Rob Hughes who was holding them hostage and threatened to eat them if we didn’t submit to his demands!
Frank’s angling skills are only matched by his sandwich and tea making abilities!
As Friday heralded a change in weather with a shift in wind direction and possible rain later in the evening we decided on a change in strategy. Frank’s exceptional casting prowess was put to use by launching a bait some 150 + yards into the shallow area to our right and nearest the main lake. This meant that we also needed to remove some thistle like plants along the shore line as they threatened to impede landing a fish from this area. We also launched some baits with the high performance carbon throwing sticks we’d each newly acquired to the area. Meanwhile we loaded the drop off to the left of the shallows with K-1 solubles and the CPK belachan baits in an effort to drag a fish or two through the narrow channel and under the lines of the team sat on the point as the wind would now blow any scent in that direction.
In the evening a run on the far distant rod raised our hopes but dropped off before we could pick up the rod. A little later a second run resulted in a 6kg fish that did nothing to improve our best 5 score. That night the wind came up still further and other than a couple of beeps there were no more runs. The dawn on the Saturday was as over cast and gloomy as our mood. We did not look forward to packing away the wet gear from the occasional shower that had passed through. There were now only two hours remaining before the competition closed at midday when suddenly one of Guy’s rods sprang to life. This fish immediately went off on a long run and there was no doubt in our minds that this was one of Raduta’s bigger residents. The event had produced only a couple of big fish in the 15-18 Kg range and we knew this one could dramatically change our fortunes in the competition. After a tense few minutes battle the fish set off on another run when suddenly the rod sprang back and the line went slack. We were gutted.
Just before the line went slack…
In the end we placed 15th out of 75 teams so while it was not where we had hoped to finish it was not for a lack of trying on our part. After we wound down with a few beers and a celebratory shot or two of vodka over lunch at the lodge we then headed into Bucharest for a few more beers and an overnight stay before flying out the next day. I had to take my newly acquired throwing stick as ‘carry on’ as it was too long to fit in a bag. It took some explaining to the security personnel that it was not a lethal weapon while the now rancid smell of the fish meal baits that lingered inside caused one of the female officials to turn green and start gagging!
Sadly Raduta had not have lived up to its big fish potential with only a couple of fish over 15 Kg being landed while several teams struggled to even catch a fish. However being able to experience some of its extraordinary ambiance in the company of two very fine carp anglers made it a very memorable and enjoyable experience.
Acknowledgements
A huge thank-you to Frank and Guy for inviting me, Mihai & Bogdan at K-1 for providing me with some top class baits and to Toto & Andrei for hosting a well run tournament. A very special mentions goes to local top carp angler Florin and his wife Diana who knew Frank and Guy of old and went out of their way to help us. In addition to making a much needed expedition to a supermarket to buy extra food, snacks and drinks they also loaned us a ‘pop-up’ shelter to supplement the two bivvies we’d borrowed. A big thank-you also to Jurgen Becker who also loaned us a much needed stove so we could brew tea and heat up meals.
Over the years I’ve caught carp on any number of baits. Everything from paste to particles, worms to crayfish and bread to boilies. I’ve even enjoyed catching a good number of carp to 20lb on a variety of fly patterns at a time when it was less than fashionable. I’ve used wooly buggers and bonefish patterns even nymphs on a greased leader drifted a few inches below the surface. At the Chicago Carp Classic in 1996 I even caught carp on imitation sweet corn (it was actually a yellow foam nymphing indicator wrapped around a hair) that was twitched slowly along the bottom on a sinking line over an area chummed with the real thing. There is certainly nothing new to catching carp on imitation baits or flies and as we’ve seen in the angling press the recent craze for zigs has taken it to yet another level. But it was while thinking about such things that my mind began to wander a little and eventually began to settle on some ideas that had been lurking in those far distant recesses of such grey matter of mine that still functions. The following are some of those thoughts on fishing artificial or imitation baits as well as some naturals that might not normally spring to mind.
A carp that fell to a simple Crazy Charlie bonefish pattern
A few years ago MA based angler Chris Labucki recounted the capture of a forty one pound carp in unusual circumstances. He’d been carp fishing all day with out even a hint of a run and decided to take some time out by chasing the small mouth bass that also inhabited this large reservoir. He swapped out his carp gear for a six foot light spinning outfit with a small rubber worm tied to his 6lb line and began working the shoreline in search of his quarry. The water was especially clear and he soon spotted a group of good sized ‘smallies’ working the shoreline contours. As he was about to cast he suddenly realized that these fish were actually shadowing a very big carp (I’ve watched & stalked permit that follow rays in a similar fashion). Every so often this leviathan would stop and literally nudge over rocks in search of crayfish hiding underneath. Meanwhile the ‘smallies’ were hanging around in the hope of grabbing any wayward crayfish or other food items that escaped the carp’s attention. Now Chris figured catching the carp was out of the question but thought he’d have a decent shot at one of the bigger small mouth. He flipped a cast towards one trailing a couple of feet behind the carp and before the bass could react this massive carp had flipped around and grabbed his lure! Still stunned by the carp’s lightning reactions and the fact he was hooked up to this beast a battle royal ensued. Chris screamed out for his wife, some hundred yards further down the bank, to bring a net. About 40 minutes later and with the carp still seemingly with the upper hand he somehow managed to steer it so that it ran straight into the open net. A great story and a remarkable capture!
Chris Labucki with a beast of a carp that took a one inch rubber jig.
But ask yourself this question – how remarkable is it really?
In North America carp simply cannot rely on being fed large quantities of bait to survive like their European cousins. The waters over here are, for the most part, simply vast by European standards and the angling pressure almost non-existent. So other than a few exceptional circumstances, such as the grain loading docks on some big rivers, carp must inevitably cruise in search of a variety of natural food sources. When those food sources are in abundance, perhaps during a snail hatch or when mulberries or acorns are falling into the water, then the carp will take full advantage of the times of plenty and will stop to gorge themselves. This type of feeding can be quite exclusive and the carp can behave like the pickiest trout with a dry fly presentation, often ignoring anything other than the food item they are focused upon.
The giant Mystery Snail is a species that can be found in many US waters
I have little doubt that, beyond the spawning season, carp in excess of 40lb are for the most part solitary beasts or hang out with just one or two similar sized fish. There are numerous accounts in the carp angling literature that seem to qualify this fact and particularly when talking about big commons. While many big carp are regularly captured, sometimes several times a season, there are others in the same water that elude capture for many years. A few are never caught and go on to become the subject of folklore and legend. If you read any of the early accounts of fishing some of the famous English waters like Redmire or Savay you will have heard about such fish. The vivid accounts given by anglers who, when sitting in a tree watching a group of well known big carp, have been left in awe when a solitary fish swam into view and simply dwarfed the others. The fact that such a fish might remain uncaught for decades in a large body of water is one thing but in the 4 acres of a small water like Redmire it simply raises the question – why? One answer suggests that most of the waters where such leviathans have gone uncaught have an over whelming abundance of natural food. I don’t believe these fish have necessarily learned to avoid an angler’s baits but more simply that they haven’t even considered feeding on anything other than the natural fauna that’s readily available.
Remains of mussels in a carp sack
Over the years many carp anglers have seen the remains of freshwater mussels and clams in the bottom of nets and keep sacks. It is clear that where there is an abundance of such molluscs the carp will readily dig them up and crush them in their pharangeal teeth. The same goes for crayfish and it is not difficult to imagine a carp sucking down even the biggest crayfish with relative ease. Over the years I’ve seen many articles on how to fish such shellfish including some ingenious contraptions with boilies mounted inside specially hinged shell casings, however none seem to have caught on. One water I fish is inhabited by a giant freshwater snail (the Chinese Mystery Snail which is now widespread in many waters) that would surely make a tasty meal for any discerning carp. The question is should I consider creating a massive 2-3″ zig bug to fish in the upper layers? The increased popularity and success from fishing ‘zigs’ clearing recognizes the fact that carp regularly feed at all levels in the water column and if ever there was a place to use this technique it should be on the wild water fish of North America. In 2014 I fully intend to expand upon my limited experience with zigs from previous seasons. I have even tied some favorite fly patterns that I hope will add to the success I’ve already achieved with simple pieces of foam.
And while we are on the subject of ‘zigs’ who said they should be fished floating up above an anchored weight? One advantage of being an all-around angler is the ability to draw from other experiences and fishing techniques. One of the most successful still water trout fly patterns is the ‘booby’. Originally tied as a buoyant nymph pattern with two large foam balls (like a pair of ‘boobs’ hence the name) it was originally fished on a sinking fly line over weed beds. As the fly line was slowly retrieved it dragged over the weed and disturbed various fly larvae and beetles creating a ‘chum’ trail while the booby pattern danced a few inches above the weed without the hook becoming fouled. Since then a variety of ‘booby’ fly patterns (water beetles, bait fish, damsel nymphs etc) have been created and fished to devastating effect. So my question is why not fish a zig in a similar manner? It does not even have to be on a fly fishing outfit. It would be quite simple to create a modified carp rig with a balanced weight (a combination of cork and lead known as a ‘fledger’) together with a long weighted leader. Once cast out it could then be slowly retrieved until a carp latches on to the zig bug dancing along over the weed or other bottom structure.
And how about blue crabs? If you regularly fish estuarine waters around the east coast of the USA you will have no doubt seen or even caught and eaten these tasty crustaceans. I’ve certainly found evidence that carp regularly eat blue crabs but it makes you wonder considering their size, their heavily armored and pointed shell plus a very aggressive nature as to how a carp might deal with one? The mystery was finally solved last summer when a friend called me and said that he’d witnessed an extraordinary event. Steve had been sitting quietly along the edge of a tidal backwater looking for a good spot to go ‘crabbing’. He’d spotted several nice ‘keeper’ sized (that’s 5” or more across the widest point of the back) blue crab and was about to fetch a trap from his truck when he spotted a carp of around 14-16 lb swim into view. The blue crab scattered but the carp managed to corner one which immediately took up an aggressive stance rearing up on its front legs and holding its open claws outstretched. The carp settled perhaps 8-10 inches from the crab and then with a sudden flare of its gills sucked up the crab, belly first. As soon as the crab (which was way too big to be swallowed whole) hit the carp’s mouth it remained there for an instant before it imploded with the massive suction and was gone!
Blue crabs – a formidable food source?
Over the years there have been numerous accounts of very big carp being caught in river estuaries on a variety of artificial lures and baits by saltwater anglers chasing striped bass. We also get regular reports of carp of all sizes being caught on fish or eel chunks intended for striped bass. I’ve also seen carp feeding on the remains of fish thrown in and around boat docks or when used as bait for crabs.
There have also been any number of carp caught on dead baits intended for pike and other predatory species. In fact one of my earliest carp captures was a nice double figure mirror on a deadbait sprat complete with a wire pike trace and treble hook.
Now I’m not sure that ‘livebaiting’ for carp would ever become a regularly accepted method but the fact that they do feed on fry is undisputed. Fly anglers often use bait fish imitations to catch carp where they are clearly chasing & feeding on schools of fry. In some cases the carp were behaving just like predatory striped bass as they ‘surfed’ along the back of the swells and waves on shorelines of big waters like Lake Michigan. Over the years I’ve often seen large numbers of carp jumping and crashing on the surface (just like a striped bass blitz) especially in the early part of the season. This mass jumpingactivity has more often been thought to be related to a variety of activities such as removing parasites, clearing silt from their gills or part of their early spawning ritual. However I’m now of the opinion that a more likely scenario is that the carp are actively focused and feeding on fish fry. A couple of years ago this idea was reinforced while I was standing on an outcrop overlooking a nearby pond that has some nice carp to around 20lb. It was early May so the water was still quite clear and I could see several carp cruising a few feet below the surface. There were also schools of 2-3” pond shiners (like small rudd) in the surface layers soaking up the sun and on the look out for a quick insect meal. Suddenly one of the carp rocketed up from the depths like a polaris missile and inhaled one of the shiners before exploding from the surface and landing back with a mighty crash. If it had not been for a friend, standing beside me, who had also witnessed this event I might have thought I was seeing things. Since then I’ve witnessed carp jumping and crashing over shoals of fry on a few more occasions and believe this behavior is designed to help ‘stun’ these small fish therefore making it easier for them to be eaten. So perhaps more significantly I hope it will be my presentation of small fry imitation ‘zigs’ in the upper layers (perhaps even a live bait) that will lead to the undoing of a monster carp in the not too distant future.
One other much over looked natural that will be in abundance in late spring and early summer is the tadpole. An average female bullfrog will lay around 20,000 eggs which once hatched translates into some serious boimass for carp to dine on. If you spend any time observing tadpoles you’ll notice that they will often gather in clumps to feed on vegetation etc. This offers a unique opportunity to mount several tadpoles on a maggot clip or similar as a very tempting offering when carp are feeding on these juvenile amphibians.
Bernie Haines video
As most anglers know stalking fish is one of the most exciting ways to catch them. It requires untold patience, stealth and nerves of steel as well as extraordinary resolve. The latter to have another go when so often happens a fish spooks at the last moment and you are back to square one with just a muddy swirl to remind you of yet another missed opportunity. However when you are in that zone and intently focused on the prize in front of you the tension can be almost unbearable as the fish moves in to take your bait. There is often a sense of ‘a calm before the storm’ feeling as you anticipate the battle ahead and you make a cast to a feeding fish. Then comes a rising adrenaline surge of anticipation as your quarry drifts towards your hook bait just before you lift your rod and then if all goes your way the hook finds a hold and all hell breaks loose!
So imagine dangling a live crab or crayfish to a giant carp! The late Bernie Haines who was a carp fishing guide on the St Lawrence near Messena, NY often stalked big carp with a live crayfish. If you can find a copy of his video you will see Bernie wading stealthily through a dense reed bed a live crayfish hanging from the tip of a 13’ rod of his own design. A very large common is lying motionless among the reeds and Bernie oh so slowly lowers the crayfish a few inches in front of the fishes mouth. On this occasion the carp spooks in a massive swirl and is gone but on other occasions Bernie successfully hooked up and then desperately tried to stay connected as he, in hot pursuit, and the fish surged through the reeds!
The late Bernie Haines – a master at stalking (image courtesy of Tony Davies-Patrick)
There are many ways to rig large natural baits such as crayfish or crabs. The simplest being a hook through the tail. However I’ve also held the hook in place with a rubber band wound around the body which also allows you to trap a piece of foam in place if you want to adjust the buoyancy or create a ‘popped-up’ bait. I would certainly recommend the use of a lighter test curve (2.00 – 2.75) rod with a forgiving action as you will be mostly fishing at short range and dealing with a very angry and possibly very large carp right under your rod tip!
As with Chris Labucki’s experience of catching a big common on a plastic lure I’m quite convinced that this could be an exciting and rewarding way to catch some of the very big carp that evade capture on conventional baits such as particles and boilies. If you walk into any tackle store in the North America you’ll find that the shelves are packed with any number of artificial baits and lures. It does not take a leap of faith or imagination to believe that many of these patterns could also be used to catch carp. When I first visited the USA back in the mid 1980’s I brought back all sorts of these soft plastic baits and found they were very effective catching all manner of British freshwater species such as chub, perch, pike and even a large bream from a Thames weir pool.
At last years ICAST fishing show I picked up some of the new crayfish patterns from Savage Gear. A couple of experimental sessions with them resulted in some big small mouth bass that succeeded in snatching them away from my intended target of some very large carp… oh well! This season I’ve acquired some more of the Savage Gear crayfish patters along with some neat weighted hook rigs designed to help with different presentations including one designed to slide under overhangs, weed mats and the like once it hits the water. We will have to wait and see if I can achieve my goal of landing a big carp on one of these crayfish imitations but it certainly won’t be for a lack of trying!
Incredible imitations from Savage Gear3-4lb small mouths can be a pain…
I have no doubt that in years to come we will see some of North Americas biggest carp being caught on big natural or artificial baits. It would be exciting to see some of the professional bass anglers having a go at carp as I’m sure we could all learn from their expertise fishing rubber worms.
So instead of sitting idly watching your rods and waiting for a run why not take a leap of faith and try stalking a carp with an assortment of these baits both natural and imitative or perhaps come up with some of your own novel presentations?
Iain Sorrell talks to Frank Warwick for Big Carp News.
IS : Hi Frank thanks for joining us on the BCN Interview. I know you’ve fished over here in the USA once before. What were your impressions?
FW: Well it was a little bit as I expected. I knew there were not many mirror carp in the venues or certainly not most of the river systems. The hospitality was very good and the people were very friendly. I didn’t know anything about the pack baits until I bumped into Tom Brooks and Colin Peters, so that was a bit of an eye opener. I first fished at Massena at Jerry Laramy’s place where we were just catching loads of fish between 10 – 15lbs. I would like to come back and do some exploring to chase some bigger fish and perhaps some of the mirrors you’re catching.
IS: It would be great to get you back over and while mirrors are certainly few and far between over here we are beginning to find a few places that hold a few bigger mirrors and some nice fully scaled fish.
FW: Well yeah but then again if you live where there are a lot of mirrors it’s the other way round isn’t it and people go crazy to catch commons.
IS: Of course the other fish that is getting folk excited are the big buffalo.
FW: Yeah they look nice and I’ve never caught one so I’d like to have a go. I understand they feed a bit differently to carp and wonder if it might be better to fish running rigs for them?
Frank on another front cover…
IS: I’m no expert on buffalo but I’ve often preferred running rigs even for carp. I like to know what’s going on in the swim and I feel I’m able to detect more bites on a running rig. What’s your thoughts?
FW: It really depends on the bottom strata. If it’s convenient and not too weedy then I really like running rigs. Especially if every man and his dog are using semi-fixed leads then I like to use running rigs and you do get better results. It’s a bit like a trap that always does the same thing. If you alter the trap so they are not expecting it then it’s much more effective.
IS: Certainly in areas where the fish tend to come towards you rather than running away a running set up will make a significant difference in detecting those bites.
FW: Absolutely. At least a third or more bites the fish are coming towards you. We know a fixed lead with a drop back is very clumsy and you can easily miss drop backs like that but with a running lead when they come toward you get good indication and the indicator will even lift up as well as drop back so you’ll have a better chance to pick them up.
IS: The only thing with running leads is having to be a lot more conscious of staying on top of the rods rather than hanging out in the bivvy and waiting for a screamer.
FW: Yeah, yeah well that’s how it should be really. You should be fishing. It’s getting ridiculous in England where many people are more worried about which DVD they are going to watch or computer game they are going to be playing.
IS: Last time I was back walking around a public water I was amazed at the cases of Stella outside the bivvy with 3 days worth of empty Chinese take away boxes which they’d even had delivered to the swim.
FW: Was this in your swim again Iain? (Lots of laughter….)
IS: I think people assume the carp here in the USA are ‘easy’ and in some cases they are as they’ve often never even seen a baited hook or rigs like they have in the UK and Europe but I think the bigger fish are a lot more cunning than we would give them credit.
FW: Just the way fish behave even when they’ve been shocked. They are so tactile with their mouths that they can just shake their heads and just slam it out the mouth quite easily. You just have to watch some of the Korda underwater DVD’s to see that initial flick the carp do to get rid of the rig.
IS: It’s a humbling experience to see carp eject even the best rigs with ease and mostly without us even realizing.
FW: Well here’s a thought on it. Even with barbed hooks how many fish have you caught over the years that are trailing a rig around? It’s not so many. They get rid of them. Carp can screw their mouth up and manipulate the hook so that it eventually gets pushed out. They struggle more with tiny hooks as they bury more like a splinter than the regular ones used for carp fishing.
IS: In some of the on-line videos etc you often talk about your preferences for fishing bottom baits over pop-ups. Is that still the case?
FW: Well my thoughts are in a state of flux really. I started using pop ups around the same time as I got on the hair rig and the buoyancy aspect caught the carp totally off guard and it was spectacular! Prior to boiled baits the fish were used to sucking in paste baits with the hook buried inside, there wasn’t any kind of buoyant element. They kind of got used to handling that so when you suddenly presented a pop-up and fished it against a bottom bait on the hair then the pop up would out fish it ten to one. Then I progressed to fishing with the bait popped up as much as 10 inches off the bottom which looks strange but worked far better than your now standard 1 or 2 inches off the bottom.
I think that was more the visual aspect that the fish could see it easier especially in silty waters. Remember I wasn’t fishing gravel bottom waters in those early days. In my part of the North of England there are no gravel pits.
I was always banned from driving because I was always charging around on motorcycles and picked up too many speeding tickets so couldn’t really travel to go down south to the gravel pits. So I was used to fishing old silty meres (which were left over from the ice age) so the pop-ups were more effective in those situations.
As I’ve diversified and moved around fishing a lot of different waters I’ve noticed that people think food hook baits should be fished on the bottom but if they want to use a pop up it is automatically and more usually a bright colored pop up. In colder months they think it has to be a bright colored pop-up on a chod rig but its absolute rubbish. I’ve found a bright or visual bait is far better if its made as a slow sinker or wafter generally speaking so it just bounces around more naturally to negate the weight of the hook and the hook length. Whether that’s the pressure of the pop-ups being over used I’m not sure. Now it might be different in the US where the fish are less pressured but I think where fish are continually exposed to more blatant set ups then they behave differently and the finer attention to detail really begins to pay off. So something that looks natural and can be sucked up into their mouths more easily is going to out fish something that is blatantly popped up all the time. Simple as that really.
IS: That’s very interesting as pop ups certainly do work over here. However they’ve almost become the norm rather than people trying a range of options to see what is more effective.
FW: Well human nature being what it is that does not surprise me. I’ve seen guys opening up their rig wallets and they are like freshly printed bank notes with every one identical. It’s got all the usual crap and paraphernalia on them and they’ve measured every single one to be exactly the same. Then of course because the rig wallets aren’t big enough so they are all like seven inches long which is the size of the rig wallet. So you are then left thinking what happens if you are fishing somewhere that is really silty then your rigs are going to be too short. So what do you do then? Do you carry on regardless or tie up some more rigs.
IS: That’s a really good point as clearly too many people think from the wrong end of their tackle. They start at the bank and then work down from there. What they should do is spend a lot more time thinking about what’s going on the bottom where the fish are.
FW: Yeah that’s right it’s the point of contact. This might be a bad analogy, but you know what I’m like Iain, its better to have your hands on a ‘bird” rather than watching one through a television screen. (Laughter and some edits here!…) Every water is different and if you have the same rig on each rod where are you going to learn anything?
The obvious thing to do, every water is different and this is the most important thing that I would say is if you have the same rig on every rod where are you going to learn anything? When nothing is happening you just think the fish aren’t feeding. If you do something different on each rod then you are more likely to reveal where it’s going right or wrong.
IS: I think that’s an interesting point and it’s where zig rigs have woken a lot of folk up to how carp feed.
FW: Yeah of course it is. It wasn’t even an option at one time or they would try it on one rod for 10 minutes and they’d think ‘Oh no I need to have a bottom bait on there’ same as everyone else. The only time people really change is when they get their arse kicked by someone else and they see it happening right in front of their eyes. So providing someone doesn’t hide what they are doing that’s the only time most people change.
IS: That’s an interesting point since we have huge expanses of water and fish that really don’t see much in terms of anglers baits. You traveled around Europe in the early days when many waters had never been fished for carp so what’s your approach to a brand new water where there are wild fish? Do you have a process you go through on where to locate the fish and so on?
FW: The most obvious thing is to go looking for them. Carp will invariably show themselves at some point, crashing and so on. Spring around spawning time they’ll be congregating around shallows and weed. Where as in the winter I’m looking for a central area where there the fish might be moving rather than one corner where I might miss any transient fish.
IS: And fish tight lines for line bites?
FW: Absolutely. If I see fish showing over very deep water, say more than 30 feet, then I don’t bother as it’s generally a waste of time. There are exceptions but for the most part carp like shallower water where the sunlight can penetrate and natural food is abundant. I tend to target weedy areas especially where there is deeper or running water nearby. I like places where the fish can get some form of shade from the bright sun, reed beds, lilly pads etc and target those areas or nearby where you can intercept them as they come in and out of those places
IS: I know you’ve mentioned in the past about walking around lakes in the middle of the night listening for fish crashing.
FW: That’s right. How many times have you been on a lake where you see no activity in the daytime but at night it sounds like there are barrels or pigs being dropped from a helicopter into the water. That’s when a lot of natural food comes out and things like crayfish move around so that’s when the fish are often most active. You’ll often see the result of an insect hatch in the early morning with larvae cases on your bivvy or on plant stems.
IS: You haven’t mentioned wind direction?
FW: Well wind direction is a strange thing. Not many people use liquids in their bait and I think this is a big mistake. Liquids are a massive part of creating attraction to send a signal through the water. As you know Iain I’m in the final stages of writing a book that will be out early next year. In the book I talk about how the wind affects the current and the message it sends from your bait to the fish. So unless you are right on top of the fish, and especially if you are on a big water, then your waiting on the fish coming to you so you need all the help you can get. So just sitting with the wind in your face isn’t always enough. You need to find moving or running water. There is scientific research that shows carp are attracted to running water even more than a food signal. So a stream or river coming into a lake is like a fish magnet. It’s a bit like a chimney coming out of a bakery and you locating that smell of fresh baked bread. That underwater current brings the food smell to them and they follow it.
IS: Exactly and with wind on the water it’s creating underwater currents that we can’t see. I know a lot of people get frustrated if there is drag on their lines but for me its fantastic because I know the food message is getting delivered to the fish.
FW: Completely agree Iain. A lot of people think that when you’ve got the wind in your face that’s bring the fish in but its also creating an undertow that’s going away from you in the opposite direction to the wind. So the smell being carried to the fish from your bait is working but not necessarily how or why people think. You also have to understand the lake contours as peaks and valleys will change or channel the direction of flow.
IS: So what’s you view on when you get a significant change in the wind direction? Do you stay put or move?
FW: Well with a fresh wind I do like to move on those because it can otherwise get a bit stagnant. The fish do like to travel on those changes and explore the water that’s stirred up by the new wind. It’s a bit like cattle in a field that have grazed an area so there is nothing left and they move to a new area.
IS: Over here because the waters are not heavily stocked like the UK or Europe the wild fish in North America are typically in small groups and continually moving around looking for the next meal.
FW: Carp are naturally nomadic but I’ve also seen fish hold up in an area without traveling or feeding for quite long periods and a fresh wind revitalizes and stirs them up. There are areas where there seem to be resident carp and even though you might catch them almost anywhere over the years there’s usually a preference for a particular area. So even though they move around at different times they will always go back to an old haunt where they feel safe. The bigger carp can also be quite territorial. So I’ve had it where I’m fishing into a fresh wind and the fishing’s been incredible and I’ve also had it where it’s been terrible and I’ve blanked. But its all about percentages and a fresh wind usually means a move.
IS: I think the only time I’ve found following the wind is an issue is when the weather is really hot. Might not be the case in England but certainly in Europe and over here we can get weeks on end where the water temps get up into the 70’s and even 80’s. Then it’s a time to fish on the ‘back’ of the wind as it tends to be cooler water.
FW: That’s right as in England we don’t really get those extremes of heat like you do or in Europe. So the only times I don’t fish with the wind in my face is in winter when it might be a Northerly and is freezing cold, then it will be chilling the water down even more. The fish will be looking for calmer water which will allow the sun to penetrate the water. I’ve also never understood people saying look for the deepest water to fish in winter. I’ve never understood that logic.
IS: Agreed. I’ve always looked for old weed beds.
FW: Absolutely. Bull rushes, trees, snags or inlets where there is protection and food. The fish won’t move much in the winter and if you can find a spot where they are then it’s not likely to change from year to year.
IS: Underground springs are another good place in lakes because the water is a constant temperature especially when its coming up from deep down.
FW: Even water coming from fields and marsh areas can be a few degrees warmer and it would be worth taking temperature measurements to see if there is a few degrees difference. There was a swim on Cassein called ‘Le Grand Fili” that was 5 or 6 degrees warmer than anywhere else on the lake. It had very deep water in front of it, down to 105 ft, but it was the plateau that shelved from about knee depth down to about 30ft before it hit the abyss and dropped 70 ft. And that area fished so consistently it was incredible but actually got less sun than anywhere else on the lake.
IS: Your probably one of the most influential carp anglers of the modern era but who has inspired you in your angling career over the years?
FW: There have been loads but certainly Rod Hutchinson in the early days has to be one of them. He wasn’t a very technical angler in some respects with his tackle but it was the thought process and the reasons behind why he was doing things that I liked. He was not only a bright and articulate man but he had the ability to solve immediate problems. I liked the way he fished hemp and particles a bit like your mate Mike Wilson and the baiting pyramid on Savay. Now George Sharman is a name that won’t be familiar to many people but he’s prominent in the BCSG and wrote a couple of books like Carp and the Carp Angler. George was a perfectionist and was talking about how to sharpen hooks some 40 years ago. I don’t mean you need to fish sharp hooks but exact details on how many strokes with a file and in which order and direction to do it perfectly. He talked about the best hook patterns, best knots with comparison he’d done he really left no stone unturned. He studied fish movements, water temps all the things we’ve just been talking about. He was immaculate and he’s someone I admire. A perfectionist and a pioneer.
I don’t judge people on the size of the fish they’ve caught. It’s a guide to where they’ve travelled and where they may have fished but its not a particularly great guide or barometer of someone’s ability. Geographically you might be in a complete sh*t bag of a place where there are very few decent carp but it doesn’t mean to say you can’t be a master of your angling and the waters you fish. You might be a better and more technical angler because you are having to try harder. A bit like the street urchins in Brazil playing soccer. They don’t have all the kit or even soccer boots but they get amazing skills and can run rings around kids who’ve had everything on a plate.
IS: It’s the same whether in Europe or over here. My respect goes to the angler who can get results from developing a new water rather than turning up to a known swim for the first time and banging out a couple of big fish.
FW: That’s right. Especially with all the technology available anyone can find out the going swim and then just turn up. GPS, sonar everything makes it easy for folk to just turn up and throw the same old sh*t out without even having to think. It’s just fishing by numbers so what’s clever about that?
IS: Then it seems people can get very trapped in techniques rather than exploring new ideas or understanding why they are fishing a particular rig or bait and so on.
FW: Indeed and that’s where the pioneering spirit disappears which is really the whole essence of angling. You are just going through the motions and are becoming a collector of trophy shots. It’s not about the end result so much as how you get there which should be important. It’s like saying I did Everest in 2010 and taking photos of you stood on the top but you actually arrived there by helicopter. It’s pointless. You could train a monkey to do that.
IS: Now there’s an idea! Perhaps I can get geese or ducks to bait up my swims when I don’t have time.
We had to delete Frank’s response as it was not very PC but was funny as heck… we had to take a pause in the interview because we couldn’t stop laughing!
IS: So onto more serious stuff. You have a book coming out and I know you talk about many of the places you’ve fished over the years, but are there places you haven’t fished but are on your bucket list?
Balaton, Hungary
FW: There is mate. I want to fish Balaton near Budapest which is the biggest natural lake in Europe. A friend of mine has already had three carp over 90lbs from there, and all mirrors. But he’s doing two month sessions on there at a time. He’s fishing in the back yard of some millionaire’s mansion and even with all the pleasantries of fishing like that its still quite an ordeal fishing that length of time. Its very shallow for about 300 metres so he’s having to fish at extreme range with 35-40mm boilies to stop the bream from picking up the rigs. So that’s interesting but I don’t have the time to do it right now. But I’d certainly like to take a look at it as it is mind blowing to think there are carp that size in the there that have grown to that size naturally and not force fed with anglers baits. Just imagine how impressive that strain of fish must be.
IS: Any UK waters?
FW: No not really. It’s a bit sad to say that isn’t it? I find it a bit tedious with all these named fish. There’s a fish called the ‘Black mouth’ because it’s been caught so many times and looks a bit the worse for wear or ‘Charlie’s Mate’ and you know within a couple of ounces how big its going to be.
IS: So there’s no surprise or novelty.
FW: Yeah so that’s really not so interesting for me. There is a place called Rostherne Mere which is a site of scientific interest. It even has fresh water smelt in it, one of only three in the whole of the UK so very rare indeed and of course there is no fishing and its well protected. They have allowed a local police fishing club to have a go once a year for the pike and they’ve been caught up to over 40lb. In 1981 some test nettings were made by Liverpool University to see what was in there. They pulled in some carp that went over 40lb. Now in 1980 there were no more than 2 or 3 40’s reported each year so it’s incredible to think those fish had grown to that size naturally way back then. Problem is it’s an $8000 fine if you get caught! I’d love to fish there and I’ve been very tempted! Just imagine getting that first screaming run over a bed of hemp & corn on a place like that? That would be tremendous.
Rostherne Mere
How big did the carp eventually grow in Rostherne?
IS: That’s what makes fishing over here so interesting. You just don’t know what’s in there.
FW: That’s great you’re the first and its pioneering stuff. You can have a good old guess at what might be there but you don’t really know do you?
IS: That’s right and there are waters I’ve fished that I thought were just doubles waters but then turned up some big fish.
FW: My mum & dad went to Turkey about 25 years ago and met a bloke on the plane. They got chatting and he said I’m not doing the usual sunbathing holiday I’m going fishing but you probably won’t know what they are but they are carp. Obviously my dad’s ears pricked up. This bloke said you wouldn’t believe how big they get but I’ve had them up to almost 60 lb.
IS: And that’s 25 years ago!
FW: Yeah and natural fish. This bloke then got a wad of photos out and showed my mum & dad. My dad said those are impressive and I know our Frank would go mad if he saw them. So this bloke said “Oh does he do some fishing then?”. So my dad said “Yes, you might even know him he’s Frank Warwick”. My dad said the blokes face was a right picture! The bloke said he wouldn’t have said a word if I’d known. My dad said don’t worry he won’t tell anyone. And I never did… until know. Why should I ruin someone else’s fishing. If I was going I’d do it on the quiet and talk to this bloke. Why piss on someone else’s fireworks. Me dad saw some really big fish while they were on a boat trip out there.
IS: It’s certainly fascinating to read some of the articles that have come out about fishing some of the big European waters.
FW: Our trip to Raduta in Romania will be very interesting.
IS: I’m definitely looking forward to that mate.
FW: It will be a fantastic trip. It’s got lots of history plus it’s a runs water for big fish. I think you’ll really enjoy it and we’ll have some fun.
IS: I’m sure one of the things you are going to mention in your book is the use of plastics.
FW: I think for people not so familiar with artificial baits there’s a leap of faith to just use them on the rig. A lot of people will only use them to tip off a boilie or other bait. That’s ridiculous as I’ve caught fish to over 40lb in England at night and with just a single piece of plastic corn. Fish are always picking things up, they don’t have hands, so they are continually sucking things into their mouth just to see if its food. Of course they soon realize that its not and its just a piece of plastic but that’s your bite.
IS: Are you fishing plastics with any kind of method?
FW: Yeah if not method then over a bed of hemp and corn or ‘partiblend’. Method or stick mixes with pellets work well in bags or mesh. On short sessions you might not want to be putting in too much bait like maize, especially if other people have been fishing the area or you see rolling fish. So just put on one or two pieces of plastic corn and just cast it out. Perhaps pop it up an inch and see how it goes.
IS: Certainly in spring when the carp are getting more active and when there isn’t yet a wealth of natural food then they are much more willing to pick up almost anything just to try it.
FW: That’s right and if you get some sweetcorn and soak it salt then you can put it a PVA bag and cast it out with just a couple of pieces of plastic corn on the hair to any fish you might see feeding. Then you don’t have to mess around spombing in a load of bait and waiting for the fish to find it or settle down. This way you can move about looking for fish, stalking and trying lots of different swims. And you know the baits still going to be on the hair or the hook so you don’t need to worry about that. There’s no risk of it coming off, there’s some flavored varieties which have a lot of pulling power.
IS: I know you been associated with Enterprise for many years and they have several popular ready flavored versions including stimulants like Betalin.
FW: Yeah they’ve got the Tutti Frutti, Scopex versions and I did some ‘Immortal’ 10mm boilies versions for them. It just looks like a little fluoro. I went to a place called Anglers Paradise in Devon, England which has highly colored almost red water and the only thing we could catch fish on was an Immortal with Coffee Cream and Caramel flavor. We couldn’t catch on any of the hand made baits that I specialize or any food boilie. I handed out a bunch to people and my son caught his first 20 and then a 30 in consecutive days on them. Everyone who used the plastics caught fish but nothing on normal boilies or other baits. How bizarre is that?
Guy Warwick with his first 30 taken on Enterprise 10mm Immortals.
FW: So don’t under estimate the power of plastics. One big advantage is that they don’t change in buoyancy like regular boilies so they are very consistent in their behavior.
IS: Now you’ve mentioned your book that’s coming out. When will that be available?
FW: The aim is Feb 2014 or at the latest in Mar for the Carpin On show.
IS: I’m sure it’s going to be huge seller Frank and a lot of people will be interested in reading it over here.
FW: Well I hope so mate. It’s not just a technical book but there are plenty of stories and some humor in there as well.
IS: I think anyone who knows of you will know that the stories will be well worth reading …
FW: I’ve had quite a giggle remembering some of them and there a few I’ve had to leave out otherwise some people would never be able to go fishing in Europe again!
IS: Can we hope to see you back across this side of the pond once again?
FW: Oh sure, especially with us being pals. I’d like to come over and have ago at some of the big fish you’ve been catching.
IS: It would be great fun to do some exploring and perhaps get off the beaten track. It would also be nice to introduce you to some of the great anglers over here.
It’s been great talking to you as always and thank-you for taking the time to join us on the Big Carp New interview.
My first fishing experience, aged 4, was sitting by a local canal staring intently at a float. I don’t even remember catching a fish back on that fateful day but the rest as they say is ‘history’. Almost everyone who grew up fishing in Great Britain during the 60’s & 70’s had an 11-13ft rod, plus a selection of floats designed for a variety of species and water conditions. One day we might be on an early dawn sortie for tench with a float tight up against lilly pads, another long trotting a float down river in search of roach or dace or perhaps simply ‘bashing’ out as many bleak (tiny silver fish of 1-2 oz) as possible.
Now in the post dawn era of the boile and hair-rig anglers are more likely to be tucked up in their bivvies waiting on their alarms to signal a bite than staring intently at a small colored blob. Is it the simplicity of the technique that makes float fishing so overlooked for carp nowadays or because it’s too often associated (and wrongly!) with catching smaller fish?
A cracking 22lb common taken on float fished sweetcorn.
Why should you float fish for carp?
Not only is it great fun but also incredibly versatile! If you’ve never tried float fishing you will find it’s a great way to develop key angling skills such as concentration, stealth, observation together with casting and baiting accuracy. Even for the experienced fisherman a couple of float fishing sessions at the beginning of each new season will help hone those skills that have gotten a little rusty during the winter months.
As a technique it is incredibly versatile. It allows you to very accurately & quietly position your bait in a specific feeding area. These areas are often ones that carp love to frequent but all too often are overlooked when fishing bottom rigs. In some cases you can even place the bait in front of an individual fish – such as the largest in a group or pull the bait away from a smaller fish without disturbing the swim. One day you might chose to set up in a particular swim for a longer session or on another remain mobile and carry just a few essential items to target individual fish.
A float can be slowly lowered through a gap in the reeds or into a hole in the weeds with the minimum of disturbance and fished right under the rod tip. It can be cast beyond the swim area and then gently & stealthily pulled back into position without disturbing wary fish. You can fish over any type of bottom without worrying that the lead or bait will get lost in weed, soft silt or a pile of debris. A float can be weighted in several different ways with split shot – bunched nearer the hook so the bait gets to the bottom as quickly as possible or spread out along the line to control its progress through the water column. A float can be adjusted so the baits sits at any desired depth from bottom to surface or set-up so the baited hook falls under its own weight so that it behaves exactly like a free offering.
Smaller carp are a blast on the float!
Floats come in all shapes and sizes so there is one for almost every occasion. Larger heavy ones that can be cast long distances (think 40, 50 even 100yds…), small delicate ones for sneaking up on wary fish, Thin tips to beat the wind, thick bodied styles to keep pace with river currents as so on.
Finally you can set up for a day session on the float with all your other gear or take just the bare minimum and go in search of new swims and a bit of stalking.
So where do you start?
In Europe competition anglers regularly land carp of 8-18lbs on very light line (1.5-3lbs) but I would suggest starting with something a bit heavier… 6-20lbs will suit almost every possible need here in the USA. Low tests make casting easier and are ideal for clear water & spooky carp but don’t hesitate to go heavier for snaggy or murky water. I find 8 – 12lb in the softer nylon materials an ideal choice for most carp fishing with a float.
To begin you can successfully use a regular 10 – 12ft carp rod (ideally 2.50 – 3.00 test curve) for most float fishing applications – especially when fishing heavy weed or snags. However a purpose built float rod with a lighter tip action & test curve of 1.5 – 2.5 lb will certainly improve casting accuracy and ‘feel’. My favorite for carp on the float was specially built by former St Lawrence carp legend Bernie Haines. At 13ft it has a very sensitive tip action & will throw a large float 40-50yds with ease but still has sufficient backbone to put the brakes on a 20-30lb carp. I also have a 5 piece Avon rod that has a 1.5lb test curve and comes with a ‘quiver’ tip as well as one for float fishing and can easily be kept in the trunk of the car for those impromptu sessions.
Almost any spinning / fixed spool reel can be used provided it offers a good drag that has been properly set for the rod and line being used. However the smaller or lighter models will make holding the rod more comfortable over longer periods. I still use a trusty Shimano 3500 or 4500 baitrunner.
There are two primary options for setting up a float rig. The first is a ‘fixed’ length arrangement where the float is attached to the line so that it remains at a constant distance from the hook. It can be attached using a float band around the top of the float with the line passing through the bottom eye or just at the bottom (‘waggler style’) and / using split shot or silicone bands. This set-up is ideal for fishing shallower swims (less than 2/3 of the rod length). Just for clarification any float attached at the bottom only is known as a ‘waggler’.
The second option allows the float to slide up and down the line through its bottom ring or a float adaptor until it meets a ‘stop’ tied on the line. This enables you to cast & fish depths that exceed the length of the rod with ease and also allows the line to be submerged to limit the effect of wind or surface drift. The stop knot is tied using a length of power gum, waxed dental floss or braid. Trim the end down to about ½ inch but if the ‘ring’ on the float is too big then a small bead can be slid on the line to prevent the stop knot sliding through.
There also specialist floats like the Polaris models that are used with regular running ledger set-ups and designed to grip the line once the lead is on the bottom. However I do not intend to cover them in this article.
A simple float adaptor
An ideal way to attach a ‘waggler’ is using a float adaptor. This is basically a ‘one eyed’ swivel with the barrel pushed securely into a piece of silicone tube. The eye can then slide up an down the fishing line with the bottom of the float pushed securely into the other end of the silicone tube. This not only makes changing floats very simple but also allows you to remove and safely store the float at the end of a session without breaking down the rod etc.
There are plenty of floats to choose from but two or three firm favorites will cover almost any swim and conditions. A 6-8” straight ‘peacock’ float that carries 1-3 BB shot is ideal for shallow, close range fishing. It can be fished fixed or with a float stop on the line. For longer distance casting a ‘driftbeater’, which has a buoyant body near the base of the float and a long tip, that carries 3-5 AA shot will not only cast well but remain stable in choppy conditions. Modern floats often have some weight built-in (known as ‘loaded’ floats) to minimize the amount that that needs to be attached to the line. You even can adapt your own by tying some lead wire around the base. On rivers an Avon or similar float where the buoyancy is carried nearer the tip will allow you to run the float downstream with the current. And finally if you are the creative type then it’s quite simple, as well as rewarding, to make your own floats from bird or porcupine quills.
Simple ‘home made’ floats made from bird quills.
Small weights or split shot are attached to the line to ‘cock’ the float and ensure the tip sits just above the water surface. The amount and size of split shot required is often conveniently printed on the side of the float body, although with a little practice you can soon figure it out. The shot sizes are usually measured by a series of numbers (1,2,3 etc) in lighter weights or letters (BB, AA, SSG etc) for heavier. You can buy these from carp tackle suppliers here in the USA or find suitable alternatives at your local tackle suppliers.
There are lots of good hooks out there and you can probably get by to begin with your regular models. I prefer tying my mainline direct to a straight shank, straight eyed hook in size 10 – 6 (the bigger the carp or bait the bigger the hook) but if I’m fishing a heavy mainline and worried about the carp being spooked then a 1-3’ soft braid hook length is the way to go.
Once you’ve attached the required split shot now comes the most important part – correctly adjusting for depth. One of the quickest ways to set the float depth is to add a couple extra heavy shot at the point where you want the line to touch the bottom and cast to your chosen swim. If the float sinks out of sight then move it or the stop further up the line. Likewise if it lays flat then move the float down the line nearer the hook until it sits perfectly (don’t forget to remove these extra shot). It’s important not to fall short on this step as making those final little adjustments can make all the difference toward achieving maximum sensitivity in bite detection and successfully hooking fish.
In deeper water or for long distance casting group the bulk of the shot 2-3 feet from the hook. A sliding float will rest on the shot during casting and ‘cock’ at the required depth when it reaches the float stop.
If there is significant surface drift or wind then it pays to sink your main line (and in extreme cases the rod tip). I carry a piece of cloth soaked with some washing liquid solution. A quick wipe on the mainline will remove any grime or grease to help break the surface tension.
On a side note some States ban the use of lead shot under an ounce or so. Fortunately there are plenty of non-toxic alternatives available from North American tackle outlets and these can easily be removed and reused.
Night time
One of the more exciting times to float fish is at night. It takes a little more practice and organization to avoid potential tangles etc but its well worth the effort. The key is how to see your float? One option is to set a flashlight to shine horizontally just above the surface of the water so that only the float tip is illuminated. There are also floats which have a battery powered led built into the tip or you can attach a betalight or mini chemilume stick to the float tip with a piece of silicon tube. A word of warning… it can be quite mesmerizing to watch the float tip glowing in the darkness and not recognize that it’s actually dipped below the surface.
Baits & Chumming
A deadly combo – Sweetcorn combined with bread flake or hominy.
My favorite baits for float fishing are sweetcorn or bread. There are plenty of other baits but these two offer an instant appeal that carp find irresistible. One, two or three sweetcorn kernels on the hook are ideal and sometimes I’ll even wrap some breadflake around the hook as well if the fish seem a little bit more choosy. You can also try your choice of particles (chick peas, kidney beans etc), pastes or a variety of live items such as mealworms, maggots and earth worms – just let your imagination run wild! Imitation baits from Enterprise or Mimik can also be used in combination with the real thing and will add a touch of color or help critically balance the hook. If I ‘m fishing holes in the weed then just one kernel or bean often works best as carp seem less suspicious of a single hook bait surrounded by a small scattering of free samples.
If you wish you can still fish a hair rig under the float with any variety of baits but without any bolt action from a heavy lead weight it seems rather pointless. In most cases even the spookiest carp will happily pick up a single bait and all it takes is a little more concentration to watch the float movement and set the hook!
If fish are in the swim and feeding well then simply introducing a handful of bait after each fish capture is usually sufficient. However when the action is really hot or I need to get them going a bit more I’ll make up a ground bait mix that will entice but not necessarily feed them. Breadcrumb, grits or ground oats makes a nice fine ‘carpet’ and will retain the carp interest without them losing their appetite. You can also mix in some hemp, creamed corn and condensed milk for some extra added attraction. It’s very rare that I feel the need to add flavors, except perhaps when doing some long term pre-baiting. Then I will soak some cracked corn together with some Chilli Sauce for heat and Hinders Betalin for added sweetness before letting the whole lot ferment a few days.
“A Little But Often” Regular feeding with well fermented chum with fresh sweetcorn and hominy will keep fish interested…
As with any form of carp fishing accuracy is paramount to success. This applies to casting out and positioning the baited hook as well as introducing free samples and groundbait (chum). Careful preparation will allow you to throw (underarm is best) a few small balls of ground bait to land within a few inches of the float and a catapult works well for firing out particles etc. With a little practice you’ll soon be able to place them tight around the float each & every time.
One issue with certain baits will be nuisance fish such as bull heads, sunfish, shiners etc. Some times you have to persevere with these interlopers stealing your bait , but when they suddenly stop taking that’s when the carp have most likely moved in and displaced them – so get ready! The bottom line is if you need to be confident that the carp will show up and stick with it.
Free-lining.
Most people will recognize free-lining as fishing with just a baited hook. However you can also attach a float (with the shot bunched tight around the float) to help achieve greater casting distance and bite indication. A heavily weighted ‘Controller’ float or part water filled plastic bubble can be used to present a bouyant bait such as bread or a Chum Mixer (dog chow) at long distance to surface feeding carp.
Bite detection & strike
In many cases you’ll be watching the float tip sitting motionless and the next moment wondering where it went… After a particularly long, quiet period it can sometimes be difficult to instantly switch up a gear and remember the all important strike! I usually rest the rod on a single bank stick at a 45 degree angle to the float with my hand resting on or around the reel seat. This way I’m ready to strike at the slightest movement of the float. A wide surface rest helps prevent the line from getting caught under the sides of the rod rest. It also helps to keep groundbait (chum) and key items nearby so that you can access them easily without losing site of the float.
If the carp are feeding very actively in your swim there will be the potential for constant line bites. The float may get knocked around, sometimes quite violently and if it just dips under only briefly this again is more likely a line bite. The key will be recognizing when a carp has actually picked up the bait. I would certainly set the hook on any ‘lift’ bites. And if the float stays down or sails away to one side I prefer to simply tighten up rather than strike – then if all hell breaks loose you are clearly connected! But if there is no hook-up then it’s unlikely the fish have been spooked and you can quietly re-cast for another go.
If you are fishing ‘waggler’ style then you’ve adjusted the shot so that it lies on the bottom while still weighting down the float sufficiently so just the tip is showing above the surface. When the carp picks up the bait the shot will also be picked up and the float will rise up or ‘lift’, showing more tip above the surface, perhaps even laying flat. This is probably the most sensitive method but does require some ‘micro’ adjustment to get right.
In some cases the bait might be taken “on the drop” (before it reaches the bottom) so the float stays flat or at angle instead of ‘cocked’ – so be ready as soon as you’ve cast out!
Lastly be sure to have your reel clutch set on the ‘light’ side… especially if the reel does not have a baitrunner. All too often I’ve dozed off or been distracted only to be rudely brought back to my senses by a carp that’s hooked itself and is tearing off line!
Stealth & Observation
Float fishing typically takes place at short range, less than 20yds in most cases and sometimes right under the rod tip in only 2-3 feet of water so it’s imperative to minimize any bank side disturbance.
28.04 The result of stalking fish in close among the weedBubbles = Feeding!
One of my favorite ways to target carp with a float is to wander around a new lake or pond in search of fish. As I look around I will lightly bait a few likely looking areas where fish might cruise or hang-out. These might include holes in weed beds, bank side margins or along side reed beds & lilly pads etc. Then, armed with my rod, landing net, some extra hooks & shot together with a bucket (that can also double up as seat or a rod rest) and a few bait samples, I can drop back in on these baited areas to look for any signs of activity. It can be quite difficult to stay calm and focused when you see bubbles rising to the surface or muddy and discolored water indicating some serious feeding taking place… On one recent adventure I even had two big fishing circling the baited area plus some big tails waving around – enough to severely test anyone’s nerve!
Perhaps the biggest benefit from this style of fishing is how much more you will learn about the water you are fishing and in particular the opportunity to study carp behavior in some detail – often at incredibly close quarters.
So there you go – why not get a couple of floats and give it a try!
Etiquette is defined as a code of behavior that fits within commonly accepted norms and ethics within society or a group. It might not be such a popular term as it once was but its meaning and purpose helps to create an environment for people to interact without the need for written rules or policing.
The quest to catch big carp is nothing new and neither is the apparent desire to do this at all costs. Unfortunately the need for recognition or lucrative sponsorship deals has not surprisingly lead to some fierce competition both on-line as well as on the water. Here in North America an outbreak of “Mirror Mania” has not only created some ill feelings but at times outright hostility & unsavory threats. So perhaps its time to consider what constitutes reasonable behavior in pursuit of your fishing goals…
Big Mirrors – Too Much Temptation?
Measuring Up?
Certified Scales – takes away the guessing
In the first instance there is the question of accurately determining the size of individual carp captures and especially if they are going to be entered for competitions ( TOKS, CAG Big 4 etc) where significant prizes might be involved. Several anglers have been exposed in recent years for over ‘estimating’ fish weights and rules tightened to help eliminate blatant cheating. These on-line competitions rely on the fundamental honesty of most anglers, but what about the many honest anglers who may not even realize their fish weights are overly optimistic? Even though they might carefully zero and diligently record the displayed pounds and ounces how many have actually checked the accuracy of their scales? And just because a scale weighs correctly at 10 or 20lb does not mean that it will continue to do so at higher weights. Digital scales, in particular, are renowned for being ‘non-linear’ and can vary by as much as 15 – 20% out (both high and low) in their displayed weights. Even high end spring scales like Reuben’s should be checked initially and then periodically to ensure they have not ‘slipped’ over a period of time. In some States you can get your scales ‘certified’ on a regular basis or simply check yourself. A gallon of water weighs 8 lbs 6 oz so it is quite simple to ‘zero’ a five gallon bucket and then add an accurately measured gallon of water at a time. All being well you will be able to confirm the accuracy of your scales up to and past that magical 40lb mark with the result that you can be totally confident your next PB truly merits the recognition it deserves.
When it comes to weighing your fish it’s important to ‘wet’ your weigh sling before ‘zeroing’ your scale. This is not only important to protect the fish but also to ensure you get an accurate weight. I’ve seen too many folk zero the scales on a ‘dry’ sling then wet it before adding their fish which will easily ‘add’ another couple of pounds to the real weight.
It is also important to support your scales correctly. Holding dial scales except by the hanging hook can result in readings that are anything from a few ounces to perhaps a pound or more over or under the true measured weight. A tripod or weigh bar makes it easier to get a steady reading and an accurate measurement.
Support scales from the hook for accurate measurements.
“Guesting”
“Guesting” with Rod Hutchinson
It was none other than carp legend Rod Hutchinson who coined the term ‘Guesting’. It was widely known that many, including several well known, carp anglers visited waters where reports of big carp captures had been published or even just rumored. The fact that these ‘Guests’ were neither invited or actually paying members of the angling club or syndicate that owned or had rights to the fishing was generally glossed over in the pursuit of what ever monsters swam beneath the surface. This somewhat genial term rather hides the harsh reality that those who indulged in ‘guesting’ were, in the eyes of the law, nothing more than poachers & trespassers. It’s also why many of the top club and syndicate waters now have strict ‘publicity’ bans to avoid over exposure and reckless posting of big fish captures. They do not want to be overrun with unwanted ‘guests’ or worse still find that some of their precious stock have been ‘moved’ to other waters.
One of the key aspects that separates carp fishing in North America from Europe is the free access to a vast array of unpressured waters. While this effectively eliminates ‘guesting’ in terms of illegal access it does still leave open to discussion the ethics of simply ‘dropping in’ uninvited to an area where you know someone else has clearly achieved some considerable success.
If you are enjoying some first class fishing it is natural to want to share that experience with a few friends. Sadly this can sometimes lead you to discover that your friends also have other friends and so on and so on… in no time the swim that you have put so much effort into developing is no longer such a closely kept secret. While I am certainly not advocating the levels of secrecy that once soured many friendships in the UK carp scene of old it does make sense to at least agree some simple ground rules with friends before sharing any big fish locations.
Show some respect…
DEAD – After several repeat captures over the years this 46 lb mirror fell victim to a bow hunter
When you choose to share your catch reports (especially photos that have revealing backgrounds) via the internet on open access forums or websites such as Facebook and TOKS don’t be surprised or upset if you arrive to find someone else sitting in your swim. Its one thing to find a serious carp angler ‘sharing’ in your hard earned success but it’s quite another to find the filleted remains of one of your prized captures or a group of bow fisherman prowling the shoreline. If you can defer the admiration from your fellow carp fishermen by posting the photos a few days or even weeks after the capture it not only gives you some breathing space to enjoy your ‘secret spot’ undisturbed but sometimes means the fish have dispersed before the swim is invaded.
If you are lucky enough to be invited to fish or ‘accidentally’ come across an area that someone else has discovered you should not expect to be warmly received if you then camp there for days on end or publicize the location with indiscreet photos and fishing reports. No matter how clever you think you have been in eliminating or disguising the background a bit of detective work plus the use of modern technology usually has a way of revealing the location… smart phone photos for example can share encoded GPS data – duh!
It is also important to respect local rules and regulations. In many cases over night fishing is only tolerated because only a few anglers are involved and they have often worked hard to build a relationship with local wardens and authorities. If camping is prohibited then putting up a bivvy or lighting fires could result in a fine or worse a ban on fishing being imposed. Even where there are no specific regulations the thoughtless parking of cars, excessive noise or careless littering will usually come to the attention of local residents and ultimately the authorities.
The sheer size of many North American waters and the relatively (compared with heavily stocked UK venues) small numbers of big carp can seem like a daunting prospect – especially to the newcomer. It takes time, effort and water craft skills to get to grips with fishing any new water, especially to consistently catch the larger inhabitants. Simply “dropping in’ on a known big fish swim and then highlighting your captures is not a measure of your angling credibility or skill but more an indication of a total lack of respect for someone else’s hard work.
If you truly want to gain respect then it helps if you have some swims of your own that you too have worked hard to develop and when you are prepared to share those in exchange for a visit to a fellow angler’s water then it seems everyone wins!
Unlike today where massive carp are regularly featured in any number of dedicated magazinesit only took a 20lb fish to make the angling headlines in the 1970’s. The ‘modern era’ of hair rigs, bolt rigs and long range fishing was still someway off and the capture of any carp, let alone a big one, was considered an achievement. There was very little in the way of ‘off the shelf’ carp tackle or information so most anglers innovated and improvised their way forward creating new tackle and strategies to outwit their quarry.
One of those anglers was Mike Wilson who pioneered a way to selectively catch bigger fish… a method that still stands the test of time and should be part of every anglers armory.
A little known water…
Until 1980 Ruslip Angling Club held the exclusive fishing rights to a 68 acre gravel pit in the Colne Valley. In spite of a significant stocking program in the late 50’s and 60’s only a couple of the members even fished for carp in the early seventies, one of them being Mike Wilson. As a member since the late 1950’s Mike had been instrumental in the creation of the now famous Savay Lake as a fishery. As the lake flourished and the various stockings of carp began to thrive he quickly recognized Savay’s potential for producing big carp. However his early attempts were continually frustrated by the intrusion of smaller carp and other species that were limiting any opportunity to consistently focus on the larger fish that he had seen.
Attention to detail… Mike margin fishing on SavayOptonic alarm with a more sensitive ‘fan’ blade.
Before the Hair Rig
Particle fishing was very much in vogue with baited hooks, light tackle using 6-8lb line, small 0.5 – 1 oz running leads and close range margin fishing. Baits were typically ‘side’ hooked so that the bait sat along the shank leaving the point exposed to give the best chance of of securing a hook up. However the ability of even the most confidently feeding carp to rapidly eject a baited hook required equally lightening fast reactions by the angler. The ability to say alert and hit the slightest line movement was known as ‘twitching’ (which is also how most anglers generally behaved after a night long session staring intently at the rod tip…).
Attention to detail
As a perfectionist Mike always looked (and still continues) to refine his tackle and techniques. He modified his alarms to achieve incredible sensitivity, carefully set-up his rigs and minimized anything and everything that might spook a wary carp. On the bank Mike took every precaution to avoid disturbing the fish and when fishing the margins even erected a screen to avoid any bankside movement spooking fish. His chair was positioned right next to the rods so that he could hit even the smallest line movement (even in the current ‘bolt’ rig era its amazing how many more fish, and big ones at that, would be landed if anglers learnt to strike even a 1-2″ bobbin lift or drop). Lightweight ‘bobbins’ were cut from plastic cups and if necessary a couple of split shot attached to counter any drift while a ground sheet kept everything tidy and reduced the risk of line tangles. The ground sheet also allowed the underlying grass to look relatively untouched so that the casual passer by might not even notice someone else had been fishing that particular spot.
Animal Behavior
A TV documentary on the hierarchical & competitive nature of animal behavior set him thinking. It described a ‘Pyramid’ of fewer, larger and more dominant members of an animal herd pushing out their more numerous smaller brethren at the watering hole or feeding area. So why not apply this assumption to carp? Mike devised a strategy for a ‘Baiting Pyramid’ that required ‘feeding’ the lake margins for several weeks before even attempting to fish so that the carp from all over the lake would eventually find the baited areas and grow increasingly confident. If his ‘Baiting Pyramid’ theory proved correct the larger carp would also stake their claim over the smaller fish in the swim. The question was would it work in practice?
As he would need large quantities of bait Mike initially chose sweet corn as he had a friend who worked in the frozen food industry. However when this source ran out he switched to maize (feed corn) as it was both inexpensive and plentiful. In early August Mike spent several weeks patiently ‘chumming’ the margins and a couple of swims. The key he felt was to resist any temptation to fish before the larger, hopefully more dominant, carp had established their authority. As the weeks passed the swims soon began showing signs of eagerly feeding carp and it took enormous reserves of will power to resist the temptation of putting a line out… When the time finally arrived to start fishing Mike was not surprised to find that the takes were supremely confident. Remember this was when the bait was mounted on the hook (before ‘hairs’ and ‘bolt rigs’) so a 1-2” ‘lift’ needed to be hit before the hook was ejected!
A classic pose… Mike with a Savay thirty in 1979
In an era where most anglers were lucky to catch one or two ‘doubles’ in a session and only a dedicated few landed a handful of fish over twenty pounds in an entire season Mike’s results were nothing short of spectacular. That fall he took twenty-three fish; ten doubles, seven low to mid twenties, six fish over twenty-nine pounds, and the crowning end to his carp season – a low thirty. At the time Mike avoided any publicity but his passion for large format photography dutifully recorded his outstanding success and what was a truly remarkable achievement rightly takes its place in carp angling history. Mike even applied to join the British Carp Study Group (BCSG) run by Peter Mohan. As was required he was duly interviewed but his application rejected as no one believed he could possibly have caught all the fish he claimed. If they had asked to see some evidence Mike might (despite the publicity ban on Savay) even have shown them some of the photos sitting in the trunk of his car… they’d have been blown away!
It worked! Captures like this were unheard of at the time.
In 1979 Mike introduced me to Savay and a new level of carp fishing – an extraordinary apprenticeship. Sadly by the end of that season Savay’s cover had been ‘blown’ and its potential for big carp made it a focal point for every top carp angler in the UK. Walking along the bank at the start of the fishing season in June 1980 was an introduction to the Who’s Who of the carp world – Rod Hutchinson, Andy Little, Lenny Middleton and Kevin Maddocks to name but a few. That summer and fall the night air echoed to the repeated ‘thwack’ of high performance catapults firing boilies to distant swims while self hooking hair rigs took away the stress of hovering over rods waiting for the slightest ‘twitch’. The modern carp era had arrived and big fish photos began to adorn the magazines.
Does the “Baiting Pyramid’ still work today?
In reality it is possibly even more relevant here in the USA where many waters are yet to reveal their true potential. In addition to trying to single out the bigger fish a consistent baiting program is usually needed to simply divert the carp away from their regualr feeding routines and dependence on natural food.
In 1996 I discovered a large body of water that showed potential but offered limited access and little in the way of under water features that might be targeted as ‘feeding’ areas. I chose one of the few accessible swims and initially began baiting over a large area. The idea was to intercept carp as they patrolled the lake and hopefully ‘focus’ them over time by reducing the size of the baited area. Following Mike’s advice I restrained my eagerness to fish and continued baiting for almost 3 weeks. Then with a subtle twist to his theory, began reducing the quantity of bait a few days prior to fishing (mostly feed corn plus a sprinkle of boilies) in the hope that it would further increase the competition amongst the larger fish.
The initial results proved a little disappointing as I started with a couple of morning sessions and only ended up with only a couple of low doubles and a fish around 5lb. However on my first evening session it was all action and produced 3 high teens and 2 twenties, the biggest going 26lb. After thinking about it some more the ‘light’ eventually went on… So far I’d only baited in the evenings so naturally the bulk of the fish had been ‘conditioned’ to appear at that time for their daily feed.
Fall 1996 – The first of three thirties that fell to the Baiting Pyramid
For several weeks almost every session produced a twenty and nothing under twelve pounds. So far fish to twenty-eight pounds had been taken but I was certain there was more to come… in early September two friends joined me for an evening session and as darkness approached one of my Delkim’s sounded and settled into a reassuring blur of sound as a fish peeled line off the bait runner. At first the fish kited wide to my left before I had any sense of the battle to come. This was clearly a very strong, solid fish that stubbornly refused to give up for what seemed like an eternity. As it finally rolled over and into the waiting net we all gasped – it looked huge. But just as we lifted my fish clear of the water another alarm sounded – this time Chris was in and while he played his fish yet another alarm went off and Steve was also hooked-up. In a little over 30 minutes we each landed a fish over thirty pounds – All fully scaled commons and weighing-in at an incredible thirty-one; thirty-four and thirty-six pounds, respectively. Once again the ‘baiting pyramid’ had worked its magic.
Since that early result I’ve continued to use the Baiting Pyramid successfully over the intervening years here in North America. In 1996 I used boilies fished over particles (mostly maize) but have now tended to fish either one or the other instead of together. I’m a big fan of particle baits in the summer but tend to focus on a boilie only strategy in the Spring and Fall it seems to sort out the bigger fish on a more consistent basis. However don’t take my word for it… give it a try for yourself and don’t be afraid to experiment or tailor it to your own waters.
Getting up to date…
Mike with a 7lb 8oz Chub
After having Savay almost to himself for 20 years Mike eventually moved on to focus on other species once the syndicates took over. In addition to his passion for researching angling history, collecting angling memorabilia and vintage tackle Mike still manages some time on the water to add to an already impressive list of specimen fish.
Along with the greatest names of carp fishing Mike was recently recognized for his contribution to carp fishing with his induction to the Carping Hall of Fame at the recent 2013 Carpin’ On Show. In addition to creating the Baiting Pyramid Mike was also responsible for the development of coated leads and latching LED’s on alarms.
Carping Hall of Fame inductees Derek Stritton, Mike Wilson, Martin Locke & Dave Lane
If you enjoy a good read then I recommend the recently published book by Rob Maylin on Mike Wilson as part of the Big Carp Legends series.
The time and preparation invested ahead of a few days by the water is not only rewarding but eagerly anticipated by many anglers. Tying rigs, sorting and organizing gear, cooking up bait and organizing food and drink supplies is usually essential to make sure a session lasting more than a day or two goes smoothly especially if the intended venue requires a long journey. If all goes to plan then there is no doubt that these longer sessions can produce some spectacular results.
Over the years trying to balance family, career and fishing (and not just carp fishing as I thoroughly enjoy all forms of light tackle and fly fishing pursuits…) has made my time spent on the water a precious commodity. As a result I’ve never really been into marathon carping sessions. Even when fishing for carp on UK waters in the 70’s and 80’s, where blanks were frequent, I usually limited my sessions to overnights with the odd couple of extra days here and there. So for those who have limited time to spare or simply want to make their time on the water more efficient let me introduce you to how I go about fishing a short session.
Ready tied & baited rigs allowed the capture of three big fish in just 30 mins
Firstly what is a short session? For some it might be just a couple of hours while for others it could extend into a day or overnight. In my case a typical short session is anything less than 6 hours of actual fishing time although this past season I’ve put in some 12 hour stints and a couple of overnights in an effort to explore new areas and tactics. I’ve excluded driving, walking to the swim and setting up my rods but these can be important considerations especially if your time is limited and you need to travel longer distances in pursuit of your plans.
Location
I’m quite fortunate in having some productive local waters. However one of those, and despite it being on my doorstep and easily accessible, I managed to studiously avoid for almost 15 years! The flooding of a local lake we’d planned for a fish-in forced a move to this untried venue and resulted in a couple of nice fish taken. This demonstrated it was certainly worth further investigation and since then has produced a string of big fish with most taken in early morning or evening sessions.
The point to be drawn from this experience is that there seem to be way too many carp anglers willing to travel hundreds of miles when they could be overlooking some first class fishing closer to home. Each season I challenge myself to explore new waters or seek out new swims. Of course it is easier to ‘drop-in’ to a known swim but it is much more satisfying and a better measure of your angling capabilities to find and develop your own.
However choosing which swim and when to fish is critical to getting results in the limited time you have available. So it’s vital to do your homework.
Homework
Simply turning up at a water and expecting to catch fish from the nearest available swim is pointless. Dick Walker (renowned for his capture of a British record carp) once said that he would rather spend 6 hours of a fishing trip finding the fish and an hour catching them than 7 hours blanking. This is easily the best advice if you want to make the most of your limited time on the water. There is a huge amount of satisfaction in figuring out the best places and times to fish on any given water and then consistently putting some big fish on the bank.
When I first moved to the US back in 1994 many of the waters we now take for granted were unexplored and in many cases we did not know if they even held carp. I spent many weekends wandering around potential waters, mostly at the crack of dawn or late evening, in the hope of seeing carp showing. On one such morning I bumped into a teenager out walking his dog and asked if there were any carp in the lake. “Sure” he said, some are over 40 lbs”… as you can imagine my interest level was piqued but then I’d also heard too many folk claim a mid teen fish as a forty. So I asked how big a forty pound carp might be and this young lad stretched out his arms and said “42 inches”. How did he know it was that precise size I wondered? The answer was it had been bow hunted by his father and was now mounted on the wall in their basement. I’d visited that water four or five times and seen no signs of carp and but for that chance encounter would have probably crossed it off my list. Since then it has produced some cracking fish in short sessions but not without some homework.
Topographic maps or time spent with marker floats etc are important tools to help you build up a picture of the water. The creation of a simple map that shows key features such as drops offs, ledges, bars, weed beds etc will be invaluable and especially if you mark areas that you frequently see carp feeding or moving then it will add to considerably to your knowledge. One of Europe’s top carp anglers Frank Warwick even suggests creeping around a lake in the middle of the night to listen for the sounds of crashing fish and carefully noting their location and feeding times.
On the larger waters here in the USA it really helps to understand the effects of wind. A change to warm westerly or southerly winds should have you on the move to the North or North Easterly side of a body of water. Conversely cold winds should be at your back as the carp are more likely to seek shelter in the lee of the wind. In the heat of summer the fish will often reverse this behavior in search of cooler water. While there can always be exceptions to these ‘rules’ you’ll find that 9 times out of 10 you will have made the right decision and that’s what is important if you want to capitalize on your short session success!
Over the years I have kept quite detailed records of my fishing and compiled a massive amount of information on the waters I fish and the results of my sessions and captures. Weather conditions (especially any significant changes in prior days), wind direction, water temps, moon phase, baits, rigs used, where the fish is hooked etc all get recorded. Perhaps even more importantly I’ve made as many notes when I’ve blanked in the hope that I might gain some insight on why!
Pre-Baiting
One of the keys to enjoying short session success is a consistent and well planned baiting campaign. Since most of the carp here are dependent on natural food they will quickly move off an area once the bait is gone. However with a regular baiting program the carp will soon include an area in their daily routine and if you get the timing right it will make your time on the water very productive! In the spring and fall I like boilie campaigns. In my experience it not only produces a higher percentage of big fish but also makes baiting up a relatively quick and easy operation. Even a couple hundred boilies can be placed with a catapult or throwing stick in less than 10 – 15 minutes. However once the water has warmed up and the fish are feeding more heavily I will usually switch to particles. It is relatively easy to make up several gallons at a time and introduce them to my preferred swim over several days with a Spomb. And, if the water is warm enough I’ll even swim out a couple of 5 gallon buckets of particles or pellets to a marker float. If you too like to fish particles then I would recommend reading about the ‘Baiting Pyramid’ that was developed by my good friend Mike Wilson back in the 70’s – it is stunningly effective on North American waters!
Organization
1. Marker Float Gear 2. Seat Tray with Binoculars, Camera, Sunglasses, Headlamp, Chod & Zig rigs etc 3. PVA kit in Waterproof bag 4. Rig Bag – Pre-Tied 5. Floats 6. Korda Krusha 7. Delkim Alarms & NiteLites 8. First Aid Kit, Spare Batteries, SPORK, Bug Spray etc 9. Certified Scales 10. Imitation Baits in Soaks, Spare Foam, Cork etc 11. Book with hooks & materials to make rigs etc 12. Packs of Leads & Feeders 13. Spomb & Finger Stall
There is nothing more frustrating, when your fishing time is limited, than time wasted in getting baits out and in play. My aim is to have two rods out and fishing within 15 minutes of arrival on the bank. The only time this might be impacted is when setting up in the rain and the need to put up a brolly or shelter takes precedence. In order to achieve this I will admit to behaving in an especially OCD manner… since I’m easily distracted I know that it is imperative to follow the ‘plan’ exactly until the lines are out before I can sit back, relax and enjoy the session.
My first requirement is to set up the landing net and place it by the water together with the unhooking mat. That way they are always there and ready when you need them most – not in the rod bag or sitting out of reach! Next I might fire out a few boilies or Spomb out some baits before setting up the rod pod and attaching the alarms. The Delkim D-Loks make this a breeze as they simply snap into place in perfect alignment. You can also keep your alarms attached to the buzz bar. I carry my rods (in numbered rod sleeves for easy identification) ready rigged and it takes just a minute or two to put them together and attach the leads (I take them off for transport to prevent damage to the rods) using quick clips shrouded in silicone tube to reduce the risk of tangles. I also cut off the swivels from most of my leads as I think they do nothing useful and lengthen the space to the lead which simply creates more opportunities to catch your line or hook length. All the key items I might need to get started are in one pack. This includes a couple of leads, baiting needle, hair stops, tungsten putty, a few Enterprise imitation corn kernels etc. Everything else stays in the tackle bag until needed which avoids having to open different boxes and minimizes bankside clutter. As part of my obsessive set-up behavior I also stow items such as car keys, rod wraps and tip protectors carefully in predetermined places. That way I know exactly where to find them at the end of a session.
Ready rigged rods in numbered rod sleeves make it quick and easy to set up bankside.
Unless I’m ‘stalking’ fish where I carry the bare minimum of tackle I probably carry more gear than is strictly necessary. However a carp barrow or trolley makes it relatively easy to carry those ‘extra’ items of tackle or additional bait that by being readily available can make all the difference. An extra couple of rods for example set up with a lighter lead or free line bait can help me quickly target a fish that is cruising outside the baited area or simply try a change in tactics.
Packing up should be a simple reversal of your setting up. That way everything is stowed carefully & neatly away ready for your next session and if you keep your swim tidy rather than gear strewn everywhere it will take very little time before you are headed home. I always make a note (mostly because I don’t trust my memory…) while I’m fishing of any key items that might need repairing or replacing. Every moment on the bank counts so when its time to head home I begin by packing away non-essential items first so that my tackle barrow or back pack is almost fully loaded and ready to go…
On most pods you can remove the alarms and stow them while the rods lay on the buzz bars and if the swim allows my next step is to lean the rods against the back of my chair while I stow away the pod. I can’t tell you how many fish I’ve had with the rods propped like this but a word of warning… in summer months the background sounds of crickets and other bugs can easily mask the clicking sound of a bait runner or clutch. There is nothing worse than finding a carp has taken off a load of line and buried itself in a snag!
Any wet items such as the mat, weigh sling or keep sacks go into a heavy duty contractor grade trash bag to avoid stinking up the car and bait buckets etc carefully rinsed out. Not matter how late or how tired I am when I get home I always unload & stow my gear. I’ve also mounted a garden hose just outside the garage together with a tall container so as soon as I get home I can give nets, slings and mats a quick spray to rinse off any ‘slime’ and then leave them to soak overnight with a bio friendly citrus cleaner. That way the risk of transferring any organisms from one water to another is eliminated and perhaps more importantly the Mrs is not offended by any lingering smells!
Rigs & Terminal tackle
North American carp are not, for the most part, as wary and rig ‘educated’ as their European cousins. However this does not remove the need for a rig that is 100% effective in its hooking ability. I’m always in favor of simplifying things as much as possible and feel that the more complex a rig is to tie then the more likely it can go wrong or fail. One key factor to consider with North American carp is that on average and pound for pound they will fight harder and longer than those ‘across the pond’. This means that your rigs, terminal tackle and in particular your hook holds must be top notch.
When you are fishing short sessions, and as I will continually highlight, then every minute counts. The ability to land a fish and promptly put a bait back out on the ‘hot spot’ is often all it takes to end up with a photo of you holding a ‘brace’ of trophy fish. These bigger fish often swim in small groups of similar sized brethren and if you waste time netting, unhooking, photographing, re-baiting rigs etc then they are likely to have moved on by the time you are finally ready to get back in action. If space allows then set up an area ahead of time where you can weigh and photograph fish with the minimum of fuss or delay. A second landing net, if the budget allows, can also make life much easier or invest in one of the new ‘floatation’ weigh slings as they allow the net to be freed up quickly ready for further action without the carp sitting around on a mat. There have been plenty of times when both rods have gone off and I’ve ended up with two fish in the net – including a couple of thirties.
If you take a look at my terminal tackle you’ll see that it is designed for quick changes. This means that I have pre-baited hook lengths (complete with PVA sticks or boilie strings attached) ready to go and can simply swap them out in a few seconds using a link clip. I like to use Speed Swivels which allow a hook link loop to be easily hooked into place and secured with an anti-tangle sleeve over the link clip to minimize tangles and prevent any chance of the line working free.
I’m not a huge fan of braided main lines for carp fishing except for big rivers or snag fishing where minimal stretch is important. I generally prefer to use a good quality mono like Suffix Siege & more recently the low diameter, high strength PB Control Mono. The PB Control Mono is inexpensive (with a 1250 m bulk spool costing less than $30) and is remarkably abrasion resistant plus the 18lb test is only 0.30 mm which makes it a great distance casting line. If needed I will add a 30 – 40lb test mono or fluoro ‘shock’ leader if I’m worried about cut offs on zebra mussels etc.
At the end of the main line I form a 6-9” loop tied with a Perfection Loop which is both secure, reliable and very easy to tie. Even more importantly it is small enough to allow a lead or clip to pass over it so a carp will not be towing it around in the event of a mainline break. This loop-to-loop connects to a TFG Safety or other leader such as PB Silk Ray which already has the required lead clips, beads etc in place. Not only do the leaders ensure that the line is pinned down nicely to minimize line bites but they are much easier and quicker to set up than laboriously threading line through rig tube etc. If need be I can also switch from a method feeder to a running lead or bolt rig set-up or heli-rig just by unlooping the leader from the main line and looping in another.
As for hook rigs I’m again a big proponent of keeping things simple. Mike Kavanagh’s Multi-Rig is not only quick and easy to tie but hugely effective for a variety of pop-up and bottom baits. It can easily be adjusted to ensure the hook is at the optimum angle and when tied with coated braids the angle formed by the loop coming out of the eye creates a nice line aligner and obviates the need for adding shrink tube etc. The multi-rig also allows a dulled hook to be swapped out in matter or moments. Among my rig armory you will also find Chod, KD, 360 and Frank Warwick’s Bottom Bait rig which can come into play as and when the need arises.
Always, always check your hook point for sharpness or damage. It only takes a moment and if in doubt a couple of strokes with a diamond file will soon have the point needle sharp again. I know the UK magazines would have you believe that changing a rig out after every fish is a ‘must’ but with the number of fish we catch here in North America we’d all be bankrupt if we followed that advice! If you check everything carefully there is no reason why you cannot land ten, twenty or even more fish on the same rig.
It is also worth running your fingers over last few feet of main line, especially if you’re fishing over rocks or zebras or have been dragged through some snags! You’ll soon feel any abrasion or nicks and can quickly trim off the damaged length and retie a new knot or loop as needed.
Chum & Chumming
The success of a short session often hinges on how you introduce chum or free bait samples into a swim. “Filling” in a swim with a large quantity of chum or bait as soon as you arrive will usually spook wary carp and often until well after you have left. Even if they do return while you are fishing the chances of them picking up your hook bait among so much food material is like trying to find the proverbial needle in a haystack.
Introducing small amounts of chum or bait samples on a regular basis will not only keep fish interested and in the target area but give them more opportunity to find you baited hook. The smaller quantities also help increase competition for the limited quantities of chum with the result that not only will fish behave less cautiously but larger fish will tend to push out their smaller brethren.
Accuracy when chumming and positioning (casting) baits is paramount if you want to be successful. I’m always frustrated to see even the most accomplished anglers cast a bait wide or short of an area they have carefully baited and think that will do… it might produce one or two fish but if you really want to enjoy consistent success the bait must land on target each and every time. If it doesn’t then wind in and try again until you do get it right! The same goes for chumming, especially with particles. If you continually miss the intended area and spread bait all over the place then your hook bait is going to be much, much more difficult to find. The only time that I break away from this rule is when fishing for very big carp with boilies. These larger carp are much more wary, more easily spooked and invariably more solitary in behavior, preferring to swim in small groups of perhaps two or three similar sized fish. The extra space for them to roam around over a widespread bed of boilies will not only keep them occupied while they continually search around but also far less likely to be spooked by another carp being hooked nearby and hauled off from a tightly confined swim. Since they are continually on the move searching for the next boilie to eat they also become less hesitant picking up the bait.
When fishing dawn or evening sessions placing a bait in the margins can produce bonus fish that use the security of the low light conditions to feed in close. Chumming just a few baits in a line a few feet out from the bank (or along a shallow weed bed, ridge line or similar structure) is often all that is needed to intercept these cruising fish and lead them to the business end of your gear. However it is imperative to minimize any bank side disturbance while setting up, so always move stealthily and don’t hammer in bank sticks or shine bright lights.
In the dark…
Dawn and Dusk are my favorite and most productive times to fish. As the nights get longer in the Fall I’m usually on the water from late afternoon until the first two or three hours of darkness. A thorough knowledge of the swim and any snags will help you play fish confidently and give you the best chance of landing a fish in darkness. I use reflective tape on the arms and yolk of my landing net so that even with the red light (to avoid spooking the fish as well as protect my night vision) from my head lamp I can easily guide it in. I also use reflective ‘dots’ or tape on my baitrunners so I can quickly check they are ‘set’ as well as on important items (marker float vanes, car keys, phone ear piece, baiting needles etc) so that if dropped or misplaced I can find them easily with a quick sweep of a torch. Careful observation of the opposite bank should yield some tree or building outlines that will remain sufficiently visible (building or other lights are notorious for switching off at critical times) for accurate casting and a suitable line marker will ensure you hit the correct distance.
Here in New England water temps usually allow consistent fishing until the end of November and sometimes even early December. Carp will continue to feed but in increasingly shorter periods – ideal for a well timed short session. Fishing from a bank that faces west or south will ensure that it gets the most afternoon sun, warmer water temps and the best chance of feeding carp. However once the sun goes down the bankside temps can plummet to below freezing and it is important to be prepared. Keep your landing net in the water so it does not end up as a solid frozen lump and minimize the time fish are out of the water as their gills can freeze and become damaged.
The Results…
One of two thirties that made up a five fish haul.
Here is a recent example and by no means unusual. This past Fall (November 2012) we had a 3 day warm spell immediately following a Nor’ Easter that dropped several inches of snow. I’d not been out on the water in over 2 weeks but knew this was an opportunity simply too good to miss. A southerly wind and 60+ temps soon brought the water temps up from a chilly 44F to 52.5F. I already knew the perfect swim that not only faced into the wind but also caught the afternoon sun. Experience has taught me that these fish usually feed in the two hours before dusk and rarely more than two hours after sunset. I arrived a little earlier than usual since I had not pre-baited, fired out about 20 boilies and was set up with lines in the water by 2:30pm. A hesitant run just before 4pm resulted in a 33.06. Out went another 10 free boilies and 40 mins later after a couple of beeps I hit into a drop back that put a hard fighting 19.04 in the net. A few more boiles went in and around 5:30pm I got a screamer on the right hand rod which I thought had crossed the other line as it kept going off when ever this fish took line. I eventually landed a 31.02 only to realize that the line from the other rod was still moving. 10 minutes later I carefully steered a 24.08 into the net to join the thirty that was already sitting there. Things quieted down and after packing almost everything away around 7:30pm the only thing left were the rods lying on the ground. As I went to wind the first rod in I heard the spool clicking and ended up with my fifth run and a 22.00 to finish off a great session.
Most seasons I manage between 150 – 200 hours (about 6 – 8 days) of actual fishing time each season. On average my season runs from mid April to the first week in December and usually includes a couple of overnight and perhaps a couple day sessions each year. The rest of the time is divided up into 4 – 6 hour sessions (and remember this is time on the bank with baits in the water rather than driving back and forth or hiking into the swim).
Over the past few years more than 60% of my carp have been over 20 lb and on some waters as high as 75%. I usually average 3 – 5 blanks each season with at least 2 being in the months of November and December. If we exclude ‘blanks’ I typically average 3 fish per 6 hour session with at least two exceeding 20 + lbs.
There are plenty of successful anglers who I’m sure can easily surpass many of my catch statistics in terms of numbers caught or biggest fish. However what I hope I’ve demonstrated is that with some careful planning and preparation you too can be regularly putting big carp on the bank even with only a limited amount of fishing time.
You only have to see a photo like this posted on Facebook with a carp lying on bare ground or being held up by its gills to see the passion that is generated toward better handling and fish care. The problem, as I’ve discovered recently, is that too many carp anglers don’t look beyond the fish care basics of a good sized net or an unhooking mat.
